by Nicole Carmichael
Even before you board the 110-guest National Geographic Explorer in Portsmouth, advisors are on hand to help you make the most of your time in the historic city, the spiritual home of the Royal Navy. It’s the first hint that enrichment is at the heart of the National Geographic-Lindblad experience and for travellers with a thirst for knowledge, it may be the ultimate cruise choice.
On board, the former Hurtigruten ferry may not offer all the frills of some luxury cruise ships, but what it lacks in lavish touches in its standard cabins, it more than compensates for with its impressive roster of experts. After unpacking and getting our bearings, a cocktail reception in the main lounge brought everyone together for our first briefing.
Our enthusiastic expedition leader Eva introduced her team, which included marine biologists, a Viking historian, an ethnomusicologist, a maritime historian, a geologist, an ornithologist, a cultural specialist and several photographers, including undersea specialist and former editor of New Zealand Geographic, Kennedy Warne. It was a somewhat bewildering list of names and specialisms to absorb at first, but by the end of the trip they felt more like friends than members of the crew.
The Ancient Isles: England, Ireland and Scotland itinerary took us on a clockwise voyage around some of the British Isles’ most fascinating destinations, combining remote islands with historically significant mainland towns and cities. Our first stop was the picturesque Cornish harbour town of Fowey before we sailed onwards to the breathtaking Isles of Scilly.
Known for their subtropical climate, turquoise waters and seemingly endless white-sand beaches, the Isles of Scilly are a haven for seabirds, seals and unspoilt landscapes. Tresco, perhaps the most famous island, is home to the lush Tresco Abbey Garden, where tropical plants thrive and thrill visitors with spectacular year-round displays.
Next came Cobh (pronounced “Cove”) in southern Ireland, best known as the Titanic’s final port of call. It was also the departure point for more than 2.5 million Irish emigrants who left for North America between 1848 and 1950.
Unfortunately, weather conditions prevented us from landing at our next scheduled stop, the Blasket Islands off Dingle. However, Eva and her team quickly arranged an alternative port visit. The following morning, we hiked to the intriguing Black Fort in Inishmore on the Aaron islands, before cruising past the remote Skellig Islands, a filming location for the Star Wars franchise and, more importantly, home to one of the largest and most significant seabird colonies in the North Atlantic.
Although we never set foot in Dingle itself, we were still able to enjoy a taste of the region when hardy crew members ventured ashore for Murphy’s ice cream (the brown bread flavour was delicious!) and freshly harvested mussels and oysters. Back on board, Jacob, our resident ethnomusicologist, entertained us with sea-shanty stories and arranged for local musicians to visit the ship at various stops and perform traditional music.
Continuing north, we arrived at Staffa in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides, which many guests agreed was the highlight of the expedition. Here, a challenging rocky path led us around the extraordinary basalt cliffs and into Fingal’s Cave, the inspiration for Mendelssohn’s 1830 composition, The Hebrides Overture. As if that wasn’t enough excitement for one day, the afternoon brought a visit to Iona, widely regarded as the birthplace of Scottish Christianity.
We were fortunate to enjoy excellent weather for the remainder of the voyage. When we reached Lewis in the Outer Hebrides, conditions were muddy underfoot but spirits remained high. The three Callanish stone circles are among Scotland’s most remarkable prehistoric monuments. Formed from ancient crystalline rock, they possess an undeniable magnetism. Even the local Highland cattle seemed drawn to them, using the stones as convenient scratching posts.
A cliff walk along part of Shetland’s spectacular coastline took us to Jarlshof, an extraordinary archaeological site that later became a Norse settlement. It provided a fascinating prelude to Orkney’s Skara Brae, one of the highlights available on the following day’s programme.
Daily excursion options catered to a range of abilities and typically included a guided hike, a panoramic drive, a museum visit, a farm or heritage-centre excursion, and free time ashore. All activities are included in the fare, allowing guests to tailor each day to their interests and energy levels.
Dining is refreshingly straightforward, with a single main restaurant serving buffet style breakfasts and lunches, plus a menu of hearty suppers that always included a meat, fish and vegetarian option. Meals were delicious and got more and more sociable as the 12- day trip progressed. During the voyage, every guest was invited to a champagne dinner in the ship’s Chart Room along with members of the expedition team. Think Captain’s table, but less formal.
During the day the Chart Room was the place to head for tea, coffee and sweet treats, but my favourite spot on board was the sunlit library, complete with comfortable armchairs and panoramic ocean views. I also looked forward to the gentle daily wake-up call and Kennedy Warne’s reading of the poem of the day.
Aberdeen and Edinburgh, the final stops on our Ancient Isles journey, need little introduction. Yet this being a National Geographic-Lindblad expedition, there were still hidden gems to discover, including the dramatic ruins of Dunnottar Castle and a scenic coastal walk into the charming town of Stonehaven.
At first glance, this expedition cruise may seem expensive, particularly given that much of the itinerary is so close to home for UK travellers. The food is good and the cabins are comfortable, if relatively simple, but it’s the expertise on board that truly sets the experience apart – and undoubtedly explains why guests return to National Geographic-Lindblad time and again.
I came away from the trip with a wealth of knowledge and a renewed love of the British Isles. Admittedly I don’t always choose the most adventurous cruise excursions as I feel they may be a bit beyond my capabilities, but there’s such a ‘can-do’ attitude onboard and a secure feeling that you’re in such good hands that nothing seems off limits.
As well as a head swimming with new-found facts, I disembarked feeling stronger, braver and more confident.
That’s surely priceless in anyone’s book?
Find out more
To book your expedition cruise or get further information from our Silver Travel Advisors, call 0800 412 5678.
