Gillian Thornton explores the Balearics and Spanish coast in 5-star style
As the last horse trotted proudly out of the covered arena and the tumultuous applause faded into the rafters, the lady in the next seat turned to me with a smile. ‘That was so beautiful, I was close to tears,’ she admitted and I had to agree. Cruise into Cadiz and if you hit the right day, you can visit the nearby town of Jerez de la Frontera and watch a magical performance of classical riding to music by the ‘dancing horses’ of the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art.
Synonymous with Andalusia’s sherry industry, Jerez is home to world famous brands such as Gonzalez Byass, Domecq and Fundador, but also to magnificent Andalusian horses with flowing manes and elegant paces. The stables and performance arena stand in the grounds of a 19th century palace designed by French architect Charles Garnier of Paris opera house fame, and visitors can tour the ornate mansion, watch horses in training, and, on Tuesdays and Thursdays, enjoy a magical hour of equestrian harmony in the indoor arena.
My husband and I were on an excursion from our 11-night round trip from Barcelona on board Silver Ray, latest addition to the Silversea fleet of small luxury ships. After an overnight stay in Barcelona – an optional add-on that enabled us to check out the progress of Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia – we headed to Ibiza and then Mallorca, before cruising west to Cadiz on the Atlantic Coast. Turning back towards the Med, we stopped in Morocco to experience the bustle of Tangiers before returning to Barcelona via Malaga, Cartagena and Valencia.
For us, the itinerary offered the chance to revisit a couple of destinations previously experienced with our now-adult children, and discover new cities tantalisingly glimpsed on TV travel and archaeology programmes. And all under the luxurious comfort blanket of an all-inclusive voyage on Silversea’s most stylish ship.
Launched in June 2024, Silver Ray is the sleek younger sister ship of Silver Nova, offering all-suite accommodation for 728 passengers with butler service, eight restaurants, a spa, outdoor pool and infinity whirlpool. Definitely the stuff of which holiday treats are made.
Having travelled on other ships in the Silversea fleet, we found the facilities comfortingly familiar with popular venues such as our favourite SALT Kitchen restaurant (Sea And Land Taste) that serves local specialities from each destination. But Silver Ray offers a new twist on the original layout with its asymmetrical pool-deck design and lifts positioned at the sides of the vessel with sea-facing glass walls. In fact sea views are a priority throughout the ship and the open-air Marquee restaurant soon became a firm favourite with its ‘wellness’ dishes by day and the option of ‘hot rocks’ DIY cooking at night.
Every corner of the ship seemed to offer yet another panoramic perspective, and strategic moorings in ports such as Palma, Malaga and Cartagena gave a front row view of these bustling maritime cities. Silver Ray is small enough to feel intimate and also to berth right in the heart of the action. In Cadiz, we had only to cross the road to arrive in an elegant square. But Silver Ray is still large enough to offer all the facilities you expect from a luxury small ship. Along with the resident musicians and dancers, we were also treated to outstanding performances by an X-Factor finalist, a Britain’s Got Talent winner, and a local Flamenco group.
As an added bonus, the ship proved to be the ultimate in quiet cruising, powered by Liquified Natural Gas or LNG, a cleaner alternative to traditional fuel with significantly reduced emissions. We were blessed with calm seas but were surprised at the lack of engine noise or vibration, even when manoeuvring into harbour.
Our Deluxe Veranda Suite on Deck 8 was tastefully decorated in muted natural colours. The comfort factor ramps up with a walk-in wardrobe, copious hangers and drawer space, and a luxury en-suite with bath, separate shower and Otium toiletries. I even found drawer dividers for jewellery in the dressing table. And whatever we wanted – from pre-dinner canapés to restocking the mini bar – we had only to say the word to butler John.
Itineraries vary year-on-year and our Spanish adventure proved a fascinating window into an area that had been successively conquered by a succession of acquisitive visitors from the Phoenicians and Carthaginians to the Romans and Moors, before being retaken by the Kingdom of Aragon in the 16th century. Each occupier added an additional level of architecture and culture to the melting pot of the Western Mediterranean, which makes for a diverse cruising experience.
Our first stop, Ibiza’s hilltop old town, proved a delightful introduction to an island known both for its lively nightclub scene but also its unspoilt natural beauty. In Mallorca, we made a welcome return to the Le Seu, the soaring cathedral in Palma that inspired Gaudi’s Sagrada Família, as well as discovering the circular hilltop fortress of Bellver. Our second day in port saw us on excursion to the pretty mountain town of Valdemossa and the luxuriant Alfabia Gardens.
After a relaxing day at sea, new experiences piled up. Those glorious Andalusian horses in Jerez. Elegant Cadiz, surrounded by sea on three sides. And the Moroccan atmosphere of Tangiers where our enthusiastic guide lead us through the narrow streets of the kasbah around the castle to the souk trading area before a rooftop stop for sweet mint tea and almond biscuits.
Like many visitors to southern Spain, John and I knew nothing of Malaga beyond the airport, so we loved exploring the city’s two castles, the Roman theatre and cathedral. And in Cartagena, we toured another Roman theatre, only discovered in the 1980s behind the main street and seen recently on Channel 4 as the finale to Alice Roberts’ excellent series Roman Empire by Train. Finally, Valencia offered us the chance to learn about local citrus fruit farming on an orchard tour beyond the city with delicious tastings of everything from jam and juice to biscuits and liqueur. A sweet end to our delicious voyage of discovery.
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