From chocolate bark to Belgian beer, a short sailing aboard Ambience delivers a deliciously different Northern Europe escape
“I’ve just eaten my tree,” says one of my dining companions. “The bark is the best bit,” murmurs another. Meanwhile, I am quietly trying to lever up the roots with the help of a fork – of the culinary rather than gardening kind.
Appreciative laughter ripples around the table as we tackle what resembles a miniature installation at Chelsea Flower Show, rather than a dessert. There had been a collective gasp as the waiters simultaneously set down the extraordinary espresso crème brûlée which far exceeded its description on the menu. In the centre of the plate, surrounded by a golden leaf and small flowers, stands an edible tree with a glossy chocolate trunk and a cloud of candyfloss blossoms.
It’s the spectacular finale to our meal at the Chef’s Table aboard Ambassador Cruise Line’s Ambience, and one of the most memorable culinary experiences I’ve enjoyed at sea. As we scrape the final crumbs of “soil” from the plates, the experience encapsulates the short hop across the Channel which packs in plenty of surprises and different experiences in a short space of time.
Our three-night Escape to Holland and Belgium itinerary out of London Tilbury took us to IJmuiden in the Netherlands and Zeebrugge in Belgium, respective gateways to Amsterdam and Bruges. For silver travellers looking for an easy, no-fly break with culture, good food and some leisurely sailing, it hits the sweet spot beautifully.
There’s something reassuringly traditional about Ambience. Carrying 1,400 guests, the ship is large enough to offer plenty of choice in terms of lounges, bars and restaurants, but small enough to feel manageable, especially for first-time cruisers or anyone who finds mega-ships overwhelming.
Originally built in 1991, this grande dame of the seas was extensively refurbished before joining Ambassador’s fleet. It retains the feel of a classic ocean liner, with soaring ceilings, pillar-lined corridors and wide decks. Combined with a lack of waterparks and slides found on newer ships, it’s particularly suited to Ambassador’s predominantly over-50s clientele.
That said, Ambience certainly isn’t staid or stuffy. I’m reliably told many people danced into the small hours in the disco long after I’d gone to bed. There’s live music around the ship, colourful shows in the Palladium Theatre and the Purple Turtle pub is a popular watering hole and venue for quizzes that attract an enthusiastic following. Quieter corners, such as the elegant Raffles bar provide cosy spots for a pre-dinner cocktail or nightcap.
What also stands out is the onboard atmosphere. Crew members are delightful and there’s a genuine warmth throughout the ship. Solo travellers mingle easily with couples and groups, and despite a busy daily programme of excursions and activities there’s none of the frenetic pace often associated with modern cruising.
As I’ve visited Amsterdam several times, I opt for a Haarlem & Beer Tasting trip, costing £53 if booked in advance. Often described as a mini Amsterdam, with its historic canals shimmering beneath rows of gabled houses, charming hofjes – hidden courtyards – Haarlem provides a similarly scenic experience without the crowds. Our leisurely walking tour ends with a visit to the atmospheric Jopen brewery inside an old church, and a chance to try draft beers with names such as Pink Panther and Life’s a Beach.
Afterwards there’s free time to wander around. Later that afternoon, I head for afternoon tea in Ambience’s Borough Market buffet where fellow passengers compare purchases ranging from Dutch cheese to tulip-themed souvenirs.
Next day we reach Zeebrugge and it’s a short transfer into Bruges, one of Europe’s prettiest medieval cities, where horse-drawn carriages clip-clop across market squares and every other shop window is filled with chocolates or waffles.
Instead of a shore excursion I decide to do my own thing and opt for Ambassador’s £49 shuttle into town. Bruges rewards wandering without too rigid a plan, and all the main attractions are within easy walking distance in the compact UNESCO-listed historic centre. By chance I find the quirky Frietmuseum, dedicated to the history of Belgian’s famous chips which form a dream pairing with mussels to create the omnipresent national dish of moules-frites. (pix 9 & 10)
Back on Ambience, cabins range from good-value interiors, to spacious balcony cabins and swanky suites. They’re well-appointed and include a kettle, always a deal-breaker for British travellers. The biggest rooms come with a host of ‘home suite home’ perks including a welcome bottle of wine, fruit, continental breakfast tray and Wi-Fi.
Food is also geared to British tastes, and traditionalists will appreciate the Buckingham Restaurant with its classic multi-course dinners, served at two sittings, and attentive table service. Meanwhile, the casual Borough Market buffet serves everything from hearty breakfasts to late-night snacks.
For £19.95 per person you can book a meal at Saffron, the ship’s speciality Indian restaurant. Delicately spiced starters and fragrant curries, made it one of my favourite meals.
Yet nothing quite compares to the Chef’s Table. Catering to a minimum of just 10 diners in a private dining space, this exclusive three-hour experience is well worth the £89 supplement for a treat or special occasion. Nine courses, introduced by the executive chef, arrive like gastronomic works of art and are paired with selected wines.
As we sail back towards home waters on our final evening, conversations revolve around favourite moments from the trip – chocolates, canals, Belgian beer and an energetic ABBA-themed show in the theatre.
But inevitably we return to that extraordinary dessert. “I still can’t believe I ate a tree,” someone says. And, I’m still thinking about those tasty chocolate roots which I finally managed to unearth.
Find out more
Silver Travel Advisor partner Ambassador Cruise Line offers three-night cruises to Holland Belgium from London Tilbury from £259 per person, plus a range of short-break cruises Newcastle Tyne, Bristol Royal Portbury and Portsmouth
To book a cruise and get further information from our Silver Travel Advisors, call 0800 412 5678.
