Ian Cooper, international author, speaker and travel writer experiences a seven-night ‘Highlights of the Douro Valley & Salamanca’ river cruise
Is there a better way to explore Europe? That’s the question Riviera poses in its TV ads for river cruises. It’s a cute campaign pitch, but does it deliver? Well, when I was invited aboard the recently launched Riviera Rose for a seven-night Douro Valley & Salamanca cruise, I jumped at the chance to find out.
Our adventure began with a short flight to Porto, Portugal’s second city and the starting point for the cruise. One immediate thing we noticed about our Douro river cruise itinerary was that it does not sail at night. What this means in practice is that there is lots of time during daylight to admire the ‘star of the show’… the peace and quiet of the scenery.
Our ship
Riviera Rose, is essentially a brand new, 80-metre-long floating boutique hotel, hosting up to 114 passengers across 57 cabins. This makes it intimate enough to feel cosy, yet large enough to offer space and real comfort. Cabins are spread over three decks, each with individually controlled air-conditioning, contemporary bathrooms with rain showers, a fridge, safe, and a bed so sumptuously comfortable you don’t want to get up.
The modern cabin design is compact yet remarkably spacious, with cleverly thought out, simple to use storage. Most cabins also feature floor-to-ceiling windows with French balconies – perfect for watching the Douro’s slow, scenic drift. Often the biggest decision of the day was whether to watch the world go by from the sun deck, the panoramic lounge, or our cabin.
For those feeling energetic, there was even a small gym, not that I ventured in for more than 30 seconds!
A favourite feature of mine was the top deck ‘splash pool’. Not big enough for swimming, but just right for perching with a drink and admiring the cascading steep hills carved into a staircase of terraced vineyards throughout the Douro Valley.
Food and drink
Dining on the Riviera Rose was informal and unfussy. Breakfasts offered a range of continental and cooked items from the buffet, or speciality items from the kitchen.
Lunches ranged from light buffets to three-course affairs, and dinners were a leisurely showcase of both local and international dishes. There was always a good choice of meat, fish and vegetarian cuisine. Diabetic? Gluten free? On a diet? The crew had it covered without fuss and there were ‘always available’ dishes too if nothing else took your fancy.
Of course, the wine flowed generously. Portugal produces more than just port, and with each meal we sampled some excellent local Douro vintages. At times we had to fend off the waiters who couldn’t resist trying to refill your glass, when you weren’t looking.
By the way, wines, beer and soft drinks were included at lunch and dinner, and after 6 pm the inclusive drinks package kicked in, so you could pretty much enjoy whatever you wanted, without running up a bill. I managed to get through a different ‘cocktail of the day’ each evening! Also very useful was the free tea and coffee station available at all hours.
In addition to the main restaurant there was the Rio Restaurant at the back of the ship. We dined there once for lunch and had ‘garlic’ soup, served by a real Transylvanian!
Life on Board
The atmosphere was sociable, and informal. No having to get dressed up for dinner and when it came to mealtimes, you could choose to sit wherever you wanted with new friends. All guests on this particular cruise were British and mostly retired. The main topics of conversation were travel and health issues, with seasoned river cruisers, many of whom had sampled other Riviera ships and tours, sharing stories of past voyages and debating which river is best. When we weren’t boasting about our past trip experiences or who took the most pills, the choice of excursions was the main talking point.
Entertainment
Evenings onboard were relaxed and low key, no glitzy cabarets, just the smooth sounds of the resident vocalist and musician, who somehow managed to play both keyboard and guitar, though not at the same time. Most nights were spent in the lounge, chatting with fellow guests and working our way through the inclusive drink menu. One evening brought out our competitive side with a quiz and another gave us a taste of true Portuguese music, with a local Fado trio joining us in the lounge for some traditional folk songs.
Excursions
Good news. All the excursions were included, so no surprise pricey extras. The cruise director gave a daily briefing to help you decide which to choose. With so many options, I couldn’t do them all, but here are some of the highlights of some I did get to experience and a few I wish I had:
Porto – A coach tour through Portugal’s bustling second city revealed lots of churches, winding medieval streets, and the Dom Luís I Bridge, engineered by an Eiffel protégé. The highlight stop was São Bento train station, where 20,000 blue and white ceramic tiles depict Portuguese history.
Lamego – A Douro town with the baroque Shrine of Our Lady of Remedies perched atop nine terraces. Those fit enough could descend its 700 ornate steps – basically a workout with a view!
Castelo Rodrigo – A ‘white knuckle’ coach ride led to this medieval hilltop village that had been inhabited by Jewish refugees from Spain. Historically interesting and the local almonds on sale tempted many. I bought coffee, chocolate, and garlic flavours.
Salamanca – This was a full day trip across the Spanish border to the ‘Golden City’. With its Plaza Mayor, golden sandstone architecture, Europe’s third-oldest university, and twin cathedrals, Salamanca impressed. A tapas lunch and a flamenco show were also included.
Mateus Palace – Yes, that ‘Mateus’. Famous for the Rose wine label, though unrelated. Its gardens and baroque house were stunning.
Almeida – Near Portugal’s Spanish border, this star-shaped fortress played a key role in the Peninsular War. Its Military Museum was full of military artifacts. Perfect for historians.
Guimarães – Portugal’s birthplace boasted cobbled lanes, a storybook castle, and quaint boutiques. Many guests couldn’t resist shopping for presents of port wine and crafts on our final day here.
Vila Nova de Gaia Port Cellar – Another last-day option, a traditional port tasting and tour.
Visits to wine estates – No river cruise through the Douro would be complete without experiencing a visit to a traditional wine estate – the Quintas – that rise steeply from the riverside.
Actually, we got two. First an evening with dinner, violin music, dancing and tastings at Quinta da Pacheca and another day, a four-course lunch at Quinta da Avessada where we sampled various ports from their vineyards and their special family muscatel.
Cruise verdict
So is there a better way to explore Europe? Remember, my personal challenge was to find out if Riviera delivered on its TV campaign promise. By the time I boarded the flight home from Porto, I suspected they might actually have a point and that this was very much the way to explore.
It is important to understand however, that this river cruise has a different ‘feel’ from the many others I have done. The Rhine has its castles, the Danube its capital cities, the French rivers its art. The Douro however has a particular kind of peace where life feels gloriously unhurried, as though the whole valley has agreed to operate at a gentler pace, and Riviera Rose just gave you a front row seat.
Next steps
Silver Travel Advisor partner with Riviera Travel and can plan and book their full portfolio of river cruises and escorted tours. Call 0800 412 5678 for a personalised quote.
