Ten Must-Do experiences on Normandy’s Alabaster Coast

Gillian Thornton

British holidaymakers have long had a love affair with Normandy, but many travellers who sail into Le Havre or Dieppe miss out on the local department of Seine-Maritime, heading west towards the D-Day beaches or south to the Loire valley and beyond. 

But the sheer chalk cliffs and pretty harbour towns of the Alabaster Coast or Côte d’Albâtre are a delight, beloved by the 19th century Impressionist painters who came here to paint the ever-changing light. Less well known than other parts of the region, this unspoilt coast is the perfect destination for a short French fix or a stopover on the way home – a last treat before heading back to reality. Tempted?

Try these highlights from my summer mini-break:

1 – Benedictine Palace, FecampCook up a cocktail at Fécamp’s flamboyant Benedictine Palace, built in the late 19th century by local wine merchant Alexandre le Grand in honour of the liqueur blended by Benedictine monk Dom Bernado Vincelli in 1510. The secret recipe that uses 27 herbs and spices was lost in the Revolution but found by Le Grand amongst some old books. When he’d perfected the mix, Le Grand set up a distillery and built a lavish palace to house his private art collection. The 90-minute cocktail workshop includes a self-guided tour of the art museum, and is given in French and English.

2 – Ramble along the rose fringed footpath beside France’s shortest river in Veules-les-Rose, latest community to be admitted into the elite band of France’s Most Beautiful Villages. It may only measure 1149 metres in length, but this modest waterway powered a number of mills on its short journey to the sea. Rose fringed streets, elegant properties, and a buzzing Wednesday morning market all add to the atmosphere.

3 – Marmite DieppoiseSoak up the genius of Eugene Boudin’s glorious paintings of sea and sky at MuMa, the Museum of Modern Art André Malraux in UNESCO-listed Le Havre. Boudin encouraged the younger Monet to paint out of doors and was dubbed the ‘Master of Skies’ by his admirers. And don’t miss the stunning combination of textured concrete and rainbow stained glass at the nearby Church of Saint Joseph, the masterpiece of architect August Perret who designed a new urban plan for the city after the devastation of World War II. Hungry? I recommend Les Enfants Sages in Rue Gustave Lennier for good value food in a rare pre-war house with shady garden.

4 – Eat like a local in Dieppe and sit down to a steaming bowl of Marmite Dieppoise, a scrumptious mix of local fresh fish in a cream sauce, served with steamed potatoes and bread. You can’t get a more authentic version than at the cosy restaurant of the same name.

5 – Chateau d'EuTake the free funicular to the cliff top above Le Tréport and watch the panorama unfold beneath you of crescent beach and chalk cliffs, river estuary, bustling harbour and rooftops.  Then tread in the privileged footsteps of the final French Monarch, Louis Philippe, at the Château d’Eu, just 3km inland. His favourite home has been stunningly restored and overlooks formal gardens and an extensive wooded park.

6 – Feeling romantic? Then choose heart-shaped Neufchâtel cheese, the only AOC variety produced in Seine-Maritime. At least 60% of the milk must come from traditional brown and white Norman cows with their fetching eye patches. 

7 – Get an inside view of Fécamp’s fishing industry at The Fisheries Museum, opened last year in a former fish smoking and packing plant beside the harbour. The visit starts at the panoramic viewing gallery on the top floor and winds slowly down on a fascinating journey to the waters of Newfoundland and back again.

8 – Aval cliff from Domaine Saint-ClairFollow the five Impressionist trails around Seine-Maritime – free booklet from Visitor Information Centres – to find reproductions where their easels once stood. If time is limited, head straight to Etretat to enjoy the changing light on the famous arch on the Aval cliff, immortalised by Claude Monet. I also enjoyed a dramatic sundown view over an aperitif at the Domaine Saint-Clair Le Donjon, a hilltop hotel with intimate gastronomic restaurant.

9 – Enjoy garden inspiration at Le Parc des Moutiers, a glorious hillside property at Varengeville-sur-Mer, just outside Dieppe. The Arts & Crafts house was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens; the gardens by Gertrude Jekyll. And, I’ve never seen topiary to match the swirls, squares and circles at the fabulous Jardins d Etretat on the Amont cliff east of Etretat beach. Inspired by Monet, they were founded by actress Mme Thébault who planted the first tree here at Villa Roxelane in 1905, (not suitable for wheelchairs).

10 – Les Jardins d'EtretatBut make sure to leave time to sit at a quayside table and just soak up the atmosphere of sea, sky and sun. A lasting impression of Normandy’s Alabaster Coast in the footsteps of the Impressionists.

More information

Gillian stayed at the 4-star Mercure la Présidence in Dieppe, on the seafront beneath the hilltop castle. And at the Hôtel d’Angleterre, a cosy boutique hotel a short walk from the promenade in Etretat.

General tourist information from www.normandy-tourism.org. Cross from Portsmouth to Le Havre with Brittany Ferries economy service, or from Newhaven to Dieppe with DFDS.

Read about Le Havre – Birthplace of Impressionism and full of surprises.

300 people found this helpful
19039

Share Article:

Gillian Thornton

Travel writer

Leave a comment

*

Sign up to our newsletter to receive the latest travel tips on top destinations.

Join the club

Become a member to receive exclusive benefits

Our community is the heart of Silver Travel Advisor, we love nothing more than sharing ideas, inspiration, hints and tips between us.

Most Recent Articles

Home to stunning landscapes, including the flamingo-populated salt lakes, the country offers the perfect overview of the Andes Mountains and…
Jane Wilson visits Seattle, the city renowned for its coffee, buzzing market place and Native American traditions….
Silver Travel Advisor writer Solange Hando discovered amazing wonders in Montenegro on the edge of the Balkans….

Come feel the love on a Princess cruise. You’ll enjoy the MedallionClass experience others simply can’t, and it’s exclusively for everyone. Visit incredible destinations and be involved in the best experiences around each one of them.

Experience more with Princess and connect effortlessly with the world around you, spend time away with loved ones, take a moment for yourself, and fall in love with your holiday of a lifetime, every time.

With over 20 years of experience, Wendy Wu Tours has mastered the art of creating exceptional, fully inclusive tours which showcase the very best of each destination.

Each tour is led by a world-class guide, who will highlight the very best of their homeland, and includes authentic cultural experiences so you are not just seeing the sights, but truly immersing yourself in local life.

Say hello to ease at sea. Ambassador’s purpose is simple: they want to inspire every guest to experience authentic cruising, effortlessly and sustainably. Passionate about protecting our oceans and destinations, their ships comply with the highest industry emission standards and there is no single-use plastic on board.

On your voyage, you will receive the warmest of welcomes from the Ambassador community as you sail upon the friendliest ships afloat.

This is a global co-operative co-owned by local partners using real local experts and guides, which supports local communities, environments and wildlife. It offers travellers quirky places to stay, activity holidays and learning experiences. Not In The Guidebooks gets travellers off the beaten track into local culture with day experiences and longer, immersive adventures.

From wild wellness breaks in Wales to painting in Portugal, sustainable adventures in Mauritius to food safaris in Brazil, this is immersive, exciting travel.

Seabourn’s five intimate ships carry guests to the heart of great cities, exclusive yacht harbours and secluded coves around the world, while two new purpose-built expedition ships will combine exhilarating adventures in remote destinations with the sophisticated amenities of the world’s finest resorts at sea.

From the luxury of all suite accommodations to complimentary fine wines and spirits, and a no tipping policy, Seabourn exemplifies the definition of travelling well.