It is something of a conundrum that Swanage is not better known as a holiday destination. It does, after all, seem to tick every seaside box. There’s a lovely sandy beach, a great curved bay with sailing boats and fishing boats bobbing on the water, a magnificent coastline with chalk cliffs and plenty of fossils (this is part of the Jurassic Coast), a thriving artist community and plenty of places to eat, drink and stay in a rather quaint, mostly Victorian town. Everyone knows about Bournemouth and Brighton, Weymouth and Whitstable. So, what has kept Swanage such a backwater?
In some ways, it’s not a mystery. There are reasons it’s been forgotten, the single most important being that Swanage was cut off by rail in the infamous Beeching cuts that started in the Sixties – and the last train ran to the town in 1972. You could say, as a result, time has passed Swanage by and this has surely turned out to be a good thing – there are no huge modern developments and the town still has a homely feel. (Don’t be surprised if the lifeboat crew and the local fishermen wish you a “good morning” as you walk out to Peverel Point and the downs.) It’s a bit of a secret, Swanage, but one that’s well worth discovering.
Without the railway, then, the question is how to get there. Swanage sits on the Isle of Purbeck. Strictly speaking, it’s not an island at all as there’s a road across from “the mainland” that takes you through the picture perfect village of Corfe Castle, its eponymous ruin looming above it. The other route is via a chain ferry (100 years old this year) that crosses from Bournemouth and lands in Studland where you have a short drive into Swanage itself. A few years ago, it was involved in the local headline “Dolphin catches jewel thieves”. What? So, Swanage often hosts dolphins in the bay as well as seals (I saw one basking on the pebbles for an entire afternoon at Peverel Point last year) and a couple of particularly incompetent thieves who raided a shop in town decided to use the ferry as their getaway vehicle. Unfortunately for them, a dolphin went for a leisurely swim in front of the ferry forcing it to stop just long enough for the police to be on the other shore to pick up the robbers. It somehow feels like the kind of story that could only take place in Swanage.
If you want a change from Swanage’s beach, Studland itself is simply magnificent – four miles of golden sands with gently shelving waters and views of the Old Harry Rocks that stand at the edge of Swanage Bay. The beach is backed by sand dunes and woodland (watch out for the signs, though, as there’s 1km where clothes are optional – a naturist beach has been here since the 1920s).
There’s a great walk out over the downs from Swanage to Old Harry – the views are spectacular. At the other side of the bay is Peverel Point and you can walk right out to its tip at low tide – maybe spotting one of those basking seals on your way. Behind the Point are yet more downs, clifftop walks and Durslton Country Park which has its own castle (a Victorian folly) and café. This whole area is walkers’ heaven and the wildlife is astonishing – hares on the downs, fields full of wild flowers (including nine species of orchids), 34 butterfly species and vast numbers of birds. Over 270 species have been recorded here including seabirds nesting on the cliffs, falcons in the air, warblers breeding in the scrub and even the odd albatross and puffin.
You can get out on the water, too, in a kayak or on a paddleboard. If you want to get further out, though, there are daily boat excursions around Old Harry or you can go mackerel fishing (and you’re almost guaranteed to come back with a catch). The town’s Blue Flag beach is perfect for building sand castles, there’s a glorious restored pier (perfect for a stroll and an ice cream), home-made crab sandwiches in the cafés and lots of friendly pubs serving excellent food (I recommend the Black Swan at the top of the High Street).
Did I say there was no railway in Swanage? In fact, the line was reopened by local enthusiasts between Swanage and Corfe Castle and a steam train now runs for the six miles between the two. It’s a delightful day out (stopping off in Corfe for lunch) and there are often family and themed events. You can even have a one-hour footplate taste experience where you get to fire and drive your own steam train).
I discovered Swanage many years ago with a friend who had grown up there and was immediately enchanted with the place. I’ve taken my children back and for the first time this year, two grandchildren. I have every reason to think they’ll soon be falling under its spell, too.
Find out more
To book your Swanage holiday, or find out more information from our Silver Travel Advisors, call 0800 412 5678.
