Gillian Thornton soaks up the splendour of elegant cities and UNESCO World Heritage sites
Destinations often seem different the second time around. A degree of familiarity of course. Maybe a different seasonal atmosphere. But especially when you arrive by water. There is something magical about gliding into town on a river cruise ship rather than negotiating a busy airport or train station.
I have flown into Vienna before and taken the train into Budapest but never cruised in along the Danube, so a week on board Scenic Amber ticked a number of boxes for a cultural summer break with good food and relaxation guaranteed. This was to be a second cruise with Scenic for John and I, after a wonderful experience on the Mekong five years ago.
Our eight-day Gems of the Danube itinerary began with a flight into Munich and coach transfer to Nuremberg to join our five-star Scenic Spaceship bound for Budapest.
Life on board
Scenic’s European Spaceships carry up to 163 passengers on three decks. The floor space of our Balcony Suite on middle deck was largely filled by the sumptuous Queen-sized bed with adjustable angles for head and feet. But thanks to the ingenious Scenic Sun Lounge, you can integrate the table and chairs into the sleeping area or separate them with a curtain or glass door to form a sun lounge opening to the river.
This is top-end cruising with almost everything included in the holiday price from food and drink to gratuities and a wide programme of excursions of which more later. The only extras are massage treatments and laundry after the one small complimentary bag. And if you fancy eating in your suite or stocking the mini bar with your favourite tipple, just call butler service.
Breakfast and lunch are served buffet style in the Crystal Dining Room, whilst dinner is table service, the evening menu always including a speciality dish from the local country and regional wines where appropriate. We also enjoyed the occasional quick lunch in the River Cafe at the bow of the ship off the lounge. Atmosphere and dress code are relaxed throughout the cruise, even for the five-course Italian tasting menu in the intimate surroundings of Portobellos – one designated evening per suite.
Our fellow passengers mostly hailed from America and Canada, Australia and the UK, the onboard entertainment appealing to everyone. In the evenings, a movie quiz and music quiz, a traditional German band, and a lively group of Hungarian folklore musicians and dancers. Don’t think I’ll be trying the vigorous thigh slapping at home!
All Scenic holidays also involve an exclusive Enrich event, for us an hour’s concert of Mozart and Strauss in the sumptuous surroundings of Vienna’s Palais Liechtenstein. And as an added bonus, a magical cruise through Budapest’s brilliant illuminations was a fabulous end to the trip.
Out and about
A big attraction of this holiday for us was the extensive choice of half- and full-day excursions. Heritage city tours and gallery visits, cookery classes and beer tasting, and cultural sites such as abbeys and castles. Something more active? Follow the river by e-bike.
We loved Regensburg, awarded World Heritage status by UNESCO for its Romanesque and Gothic architecture. This buzzing town claims to have the greatest concentration of bars in Germany, whilst nearby Weltenburg Abbey boasts the world’s oldest monastic brewery – beer and pretzel break essential!
Ornate churches come thick and fast through Austria too. Melk marks the western gateway to the beautiful Wachau Valley, a renowned wine producing area that stretches for 35km to Kelheim. Make sure to be on deck as you approach the blue and white abbey tower in Dürnstein, where liqueurs, jams and chutneys made from local apricots are the must-buy souvenirs.
City splendour
Our itinerary offered the chance to visit three of Central Europe’s grandest cities. First an optional trip to Salzburg to wander in the footsteps of young Mozart and, more recently, Julie Andrews and The Sound of Music film crew.
Then Vienna where excursion options included the Gustav Klimt collection at the Belevedere and, our choice, the vast Schonbrunn Palace, former summer residence of the Habsburg dynasty with more than 1,000 rooms and vast formal gardens.
Final port of call was Budapest with a choice of afternoon city tours, a cookery class, or a hike up Buda hill, but knowing the city already, we opted to do our own thing. It is worth remembering though that in major cities, you are unlikely to be moored up at the end of the main street, so independent explorers may need strong legs or a taxi.
Your kind of cruise?
Gems of the Danube is a busy itinerary although everything of course is optional. You can choose to stay on board at any point and simply watch the world go by. But if you love history, culture and river scenery, this is a lovely way to have a taster of some of Europe’s most elegant cities and historic small towns in just one week with no hidden costs to pay on board. All with the added bonus of Scenic’s luxurious levels of service, facilities and cuisine.
Next steps
To plan and book your Danube River cruise with Scenic Luxury Cruises and Tours, call Silver Travel Advisor on 0800 412 5678. We can also advise on Scenic’s full portfolio of cruises across Europe and Asia.
