When travel writer Kristina Wallen, and her photographer husband Steve Dunlop, travelled to Antarctica they captured every magical moment to share with Silver Travellers. Here you can read Kristina’s account and let Steve’s images bring the experience to life.
Some journeys run to a timetable.
Others quietly tear it up and this is strangely liberating.
Our expedition to Antarctica and South Georgia aboard Atlas Ocean Voyages’ World Navigator belonged firmly in the latter category, and that, as we quickly learned, is the whole point.
From the moment we departed Ushuaia, the tone was set. This was not about ticking off stops on a schedule. It was about responding to the conditions, guided by a team whose knowledge of ice, wildlife and environment shaped each day in ways no fixed itinerary ever could.
If you need certainty, this may not be your trip. If you can lean into unpredictability, it might just be the most extraordinary journey you take. It was for us and we have been left wanting to do this again as we only imagine how different each trip can be.
Life Onboard: Where Preparation Meets Anticipation
Before Antarctica gives you wonder, it gives you rules and a hoover and rightly so.
Biosecurity was meticulous. Every pocket, seam and strap of our outdoor gear was inspected and vacuumed. Nothing foreign is allowed to enter this fragile ecosystem, and the care taken makes you realise you are visiting somewhere precious, not simply travelling through it.
Landing days began and ended with boot scrubbing that would put most operating theatres to shame. It quickly became ritual, part of the rhythm of the trip, and oddly satisfying.
Zodiac boarding also evolved from tentative to confident. With steady hands from crew members each one watchful, calm and reassuring nerves disappeared quickly. By the end, we felt we were in the safest possible hands, guided by people who do this in some of the most challenging environments on Earth.
Sea days, particularly crossing the Southern Ocean, were far from idle. Briefings, wildlife spotting from deck, and talks from the expedition specialists meant the outside drama of wind and swell was matched by a steady hum of activity indoors.
A galley tour revealed another layer of expertise. Feeding a ship well for weeks in remote waters is no small feat, and the planning behind it is as impressive as the landscapes outside.
The Expedition Team: Knowledge That Shapes the Journey
One of the defining features of travelling with Atlas Ocean Voyages was the expedition team on World Navigator itself.
Their depth of expertise from ice navigation to marine mammals, seabirds and geology – transformed every landing and Zodiac cruise into something richer than sightseeing. Whether it was interpreting seal behaviour, spotting distant blows on the horizon, or explaining how ice formations evolve, their insights constantly sharpened what we were seeing.
You quickly realise the trip is not just about where you go, but who helps you understand it.
When Plans Change
South Georgia provided an early lesson.
Gold Bay was the intended landing. Conditions were assessed carefully; swell made Zodiac operations unsafe. No landing.
Brief disappointment passed quickly because this is expedition travel, and the response matters more than the change.
Under the guidance of the expedition leader and team, the ship repositioned, and what followed was unforgettable: immense penguin colonies, fur seals in every direction, noise and movement filling the shoreline.
It was a reminder that the best moments are rarely the ones printed in advance.
Wildlife Encounters on a Different Scale
Nothing quite prepares you for the sense of scale.
Mountains rise straight from the sea. Glaciers tower overhead. Ice drifts past in sculptural forms that look almost theatrical, as though someone designed the backdrop to an epic film set.
And then there is the wildlife.
At Fournier Bay we watched humpback whales feeding in calm water, their slow breaths across the stillness. Close encounters, unhurried and completely absorbing.
In South Georgia, penguin colonies stretched further than the eye could comfortably process, while fur seals claimed beaches in astonishing numbers. Everywhere you looked there was motion, playful sound and life.
It is impossible not to feel small in the best possible way.
Choosing Your Own Level of Adventure
One of the pleasures of expedition cruising is flexibility in how you experience it.
Some travellers embraced every optional activity. Kayakers paddled among ice, at times sharing the water with passing whales – moments described afterwards in slightly disbelieving tones.
A small group camped overnight on the Antarctic continent itself, an experience equal parts surreal and exhilarating. Notably, many participants were women, reflecting the strong presence of confident solo travellers throughout the voyage.
Longer hikes were also on offer, including a demanding South Georgia crossing of several miles over rugged terrain, finishing at Grytviken. Around seventy passengers took it on and returned elated.
We paused, considered it carefully, and decided against. Sensible advice from the expedition leader was simple: in remote places, listen to your instincts. It remains our only ‘maybe next time’ from this memorable trip. Well for me perhaps the polar plunge too – which is not to Steve’s taste!
The Spirit Onboard
The social dynamic onboard felt easy and natural.
Independent travellers, couples and friends mixed effortlessly, helped by thoughtful touches from the crew – including informal shared tables that encouraged conversation without ever feeling orchestrated.
There was a quiet sense of collective curiosity. Everyone was there for the same reason: to experience a place few people ever see.
Right to the Final Day
Even the journey’s end reflected the expedition mindset.
Transport strikes in Argentina delayed our onward charter flight to Buenos Aires. The ship became a calm buffer – luggage stored, coffee flowing, passengers free to relax onboard or explore Ushuaia at their own pace.
It was handled with calm efficiency and genuine care, a final example of the professionalism that had underpinned the entire trip.
Not For Everyone — Which Is Exactly Why It Matters
This is not a conventional holiday.
It asks for patience, curiosity and a willingness to relinquish control of the daily plan. Landings are never guaranteed. Wildlife appears on its own terms. Timing is always approximate.
But what you gain is authenticity. Nothing feels staged. Every moment happens because the conditions allow it, and that makes each experience feel earned rather than delivered.
The Quiet, Lasting Impact
Long after the glaciers and wildlife fade into memory, what remains is a shift in perspective.
Antarctica has a way of recalibrating your sense of scale and pace. Life feels briefly simpler, quieter, more deliberate.
You return with photographs, of course – but also with a lingering sense of humility and wonder that is harder to articulate and impossible to manufacture.
Who Will Love This Journey
This kind of expedition suits travellers who:
- are curious and open minded
- enjoy learning as much as seeing
- value nature in its rawest form
- appreciate thoughtful, responsible travel
- prefer experience over rigid schedules
Increasingly, it is also attracting solo travellers – particularly women – drawn by the sense of shared adventure and supportive environment onboard.
A Privilege, Not Just a Trip
Antarctica and South Georgia are not simply destinations; they are reminders of how vast and dynamic our planet truly is.
Travelling there with Atlas Ocean Voyages means experiencing that reality with guidance from people whose skill, judgement and passion shape every day.
It is not predictable.
It is not conventional.
But for those willing to embrace the unknown, it may be one of the most meaningful journeys available.
Next steps
Kristina and Steve travelled to Antarctica with Atlas Ocean Voyages.
To find out more about Atlas Ocean Voyages, and start planning your expedition cruise to Antarctica, call Silver Travel on 0800 412 5678.
