Silver Travel Advisor writer Solange Hando discovered amazing wonders in Montenegro on the edge of the Balkans.
From the Adriatic to mountains and canyons, from flower-draped villages to ancient monasteries and forts, the ever changing scene took my breath away, especially on the sinuous lanes climbing high into the hills. Limestone peaks rose all around while lower pine forests inspired the country’s name: Montenegro, the ‘Black Mountain’.
With around 620,000 residents, it is just over half the size of Wales, and a fast emerging destination heading into the spotlight.
Beautiful bay of Kotor and royal capital Cetinje
Even in a thunderstorm, the Bay of Kotor (Unesco) held us spellbound, meandering from the Adriatic 27 kms into the hinterland, framed by the Dinaric Alps.
Cruise ships, sailing yachts, red roofs along the shore… it was a place to stop and stare before exploring the fortified Old Town of Kotor.
The Sea Gate revealed another world, a maze of cobbled lanes, winding streets and shaded squares where I soon lost my way. Fortunately St Tryphon’s cathedral towered above it all, grand Romanesque architecture graced by 14th century frescoes and other treasures.
There was time to pop into the Maritime Museum for seafaring history, sail to the legendary islets of St George and the Lady of the Rocks while back on firm ground, we walked on the city wall, 4kms long, delighted by magnificent views and chiming bells.
About an hour away, the old royal capital greeted us with colourful buildings, from former embassies (now converted) to the President’s official residence and the palace-museum of King Nikola, the last royal ruler. We followed the tree-lined avenue to the impressive Orthodox Monastery then relaxed in the Bishop’s garden. On the way back to Kotor, we glanced at the birthplace of Petar II – Petrovic Njegos- the 19th century prince-bishop, poet and leader who unified the tribes into a State. Time for a snack? Of course! We feasted on prosciutto ham and the local cheese listed among the best in the world.
Nearest national parks: Lovcen and Skadar
On the edge of Kotor the new cable car took us up to Lovcen, a spectacular ride and sweeping vista when you land, 1300 metres above the bay. It may be windy and cold but the wild panorama won’t let you go: rugged heights, caves, sheer drops and more.
Not to be missed is the mausoleum of Petar II, set on his chosen location. It is a fair walk from the cable car, leading to 451 steps and the final stretch to the viewpoint with more incredible views. On a clear day you can see Albania, Croatia, Bosnia and beyond.
The next day we sailed across Skadar, the largest lake in the Balkans and for us a fabulous morning gazing at lonely islands, lush hills or rocky shores mirrored in calm emerald waters. Herons, geese, birds of prey, even pelicans! This is one of the largest bird reserves in Europe, equally praised for its flora, water lilies, bamboo and others, including 25 endangered species.
Later we joined the river to the village of Rijeka Crnojevica laced in historic streets including an arched stone bridge untouched by time. Vineyards and pomegranates gleamed in the hills so we sampled the local fare before a quick overnight in Podgorica, the modern capital stretching across the plain.
Northern wonders, Durmitor National Park, and more
Now travelling north, we came across the Moraca canyon and its namesake monastery, then we reached the Biogradska National Park and its romantic lake, all turquoise and blue, reflecting some of the last rainforest in Europe. It was a special place but as we looped around the panoramic road, dotted in alpine meadows and farms, Durmitor, Montenegro’s prime National Park, promised 48 limestone summits above 2000 metres and 18 glacial lakes.
No time to linger so off we went to the Tara Canyon, the highest, the deepest and the longest river. Ignoring the zip line, I decided to walk on the bridge from end to end, 150 metres above the precipice. Wow, I wished I could have stayed all week hiking on the dramatic trails far below. Yet after a lovely sunset in nearby Zabljak I slept like a log in Hotel Polar Star at 1456 metres. That was my sort of place…
Next morning in Durmitor, we trekked to the Black Lake where peaks as white as snow looked down on dark forested slopes. We spotted a few birds, including the three-tailed woodpecker, and a couple of deer ,but the bears kept out of sight.
The scenic Adriatic
Beyond Ostrog, the Balkans top pilgrimage site, we returned to the Adriatic, beaches and bays dozing in the sun or suddenly swept by mighty waves. That was a bit of fun…
We avoided high rise Budva, the popular icon for parties and clubs, but up on the coastal road we looked across to St Stephen’s Island, once a luxurious escape for VIPs, now closed. This was the perfect picture postcard, so hauntingly beautiful yet facing an uncertain future.
Another day we went east to Ulcinj, sun, sand, and sea in the most southerly town. But most exciting for us – true ‘adventurers’- were the hilltop fortress and the old village festooned in steps and traditional alleyways. Later in Stari Bar we spotted the Ottoman aqueduct and within battlements and walls the myriad archaeological remains nestling at the foot of Mount Rumija in pristine landscape. This was an atmospheric walk, rough at times, but spanning centuries of eventful history. There are no facilities within the ‘lost city’ but when you step through the gate, restaurants and souvenir shops beckon among cobbles and olive trees.
Olives? Well this is the land of ‘green gold’ where 170,000 trees produce some of the best olives anywhere. The oldest specimen over 2000 years old. So we strolled in the orchards, a stunning location to test and taste the very best nature can offer.
Our final abode on the Adriatic was Petrovac, a small local resort with a pretty crescent beach, a palm-lined promenade and anything we might need from seafood to souvenirs and hats. Every evening I climbed to the top of the Venetian fortress and, lost in paradise, I watched the sun set all red and gold across the Adriatic.
Montenegro is such a small country yet with so much to see and do, it’s amazing, Mountains, forests and lakes, glistening resorts and precipitous cliffs… there is something for everyone. Imagine five national parks, four World Heritage sites (more on the tentative list), friendly locals, food, wine – what more could you want? Just be prepared for crowds in Kotor when the cruise ships are in, steep challenging roads and changeable weather especially in the hills. Would I ever go back? Yes please, any time!
Next Steps
Solange Hando visited Montenegro with friends on a 10 day tour. To plan and book your visit, call Silver Travel Advisor on 0800 412 5678.
