There are some destinations you visit and others you return home genuinely excited to recommend. Croatia certainly falls into the second category for me.
In September, I was fortunate enough to join a five day hosted trip with the Croatian Tourist Board, exploring part of the beautiful Dalmatian coast.
I travelled from Manchester, and after a flight of just a couple of hours, I was arriving in Croatia. It’s easy to forget just how close some of Europe’s most beautiful destinations are to home, particularly when the scenery feels as though it belongs somewhere much further afield.
As an independent travel consultant, I spend a great deal of time researching destinations and accommodation for my clients, but there’s nothing quite like experiencing somewhere yourself. Being able to explore a destination, meet the people who live there and see how everything works in practice is invaluable.
I came home from Croatia with a much better understanding of the destination and a real desire to return.
Split: A City Full of Character
Our first destination was Split, where we stayed at the Cornaro Hotel. Its central location made it a convenient base for exploring, and the rooftop terrace was a lovely feature.
Split was somewhere I really enjoyed. The old town has a wonderful atmosphere, particularly in the evening when the restaurants and cafés are busy and people are enjoying the waterfront.
At the heart of the city is Diocletian’s Palace, built for the Roman emperor at the beginning of the fourth century. What I found fascinating is that the palace isn’t simply a historic attraction you walk around. It’s very much part of everyday life, with people living and working within its ancient walls.
Fans of Game of Thrones may recognise some of the locations around the palace, including the cellars, which featured in the television series.
I loved wandering through the streets and seeing how the historic buildings have become part of modern Split. It’s a city where you can easily spend a few days without feeling the need to venture too far.
It’s also a great starting point for exploring the islands, something we were fortunate enough to experience later in the trip.
Trogir and Klis Fortress
We also visited Trogir, a beautiful historic town that feels quite different from Split.
Its narrow cobbled streets lead through the old town towards the waterfront, and there are plenty of interesting buildings to discover along the way. It’s somewhere I would recommend taking your time rather than rushing through on a sightseeing excursion.
Another memorable visit was Klis Fortress, which sits high above Split.
The fortress has an interesting history, having been an important defensive stronghold over many centuries. More recently, it became known as one of the filming locations for Game of Thrones, where it represented the fictional city of Meereen.
We visited around sunset, and the views were absolutely spectacular. Looking out across Split and the coastline as the sun began to go down was one of my favourite moments of the trip.
I would mention, however, that this isn’t an attraction for everyone. There are quite a few steps, and the stone surfaces can be uneven. Anyone with mobility difficulties would need to consider this before visiting.
Comfortable shoes are definitely advisable!
When Our Itinerary Had to Change
Our original itinerary included a visit to the island of Brač, where we were also due to enjoy an olive oil experience before continuing to Hvar.
Unfortunately, bushfires meant it wasn’t possible to visit Brač, so our plans had to be rearranged.
Instead, we spent some additional time on the mainland and enjoyed a rather unexpected picnic beside a river. We also visited Poetica Gin Distillery, which gave us the opportunity to learn about another local Croatian business.
Although we were disappointed to miss Brač, the revised arrangements worked well, and we still managed to experience a great deal during our time in Croatia.
We subsequently travelled across to Hvar for one night before returning to Split for our final evening.
It was a reminder that even a carefully planned itinerary sometimes needs to change, particularly when circumstances are outside anyone’s control.
Brač is now firmly on my list for a future visit.
A Wonderful Lunch at Dragica’s Home
One of the experiences that really stayed with me was our visit to the home of a local lady called Dragica, in the countryside around Vrgorac.
Rather than dining in a restaurant, we were welcomed into her home for a traditional Croatian lunch.
Much of the food had been grown or reared on the family’s own land and prepared in Dragica’s kitchen. We sat around her table enjoying the meal, and it was such a lovely experience.
Vrgorac is known for its Dalmatian prosciutto and locally grown strawberries, but what made this visit memorable for me was the opportunity to experience a little of everyday Croatian life.
It was very different from the meals we enjoyed in hotels and restaurants during the trip, and I think that’s why I appreciated it so much.
Sometimes it’s the more personal experiences that you remember long after the holiday has finished.
Hvar: The Island That Stole My Heart
Of everywhere we visited, Hvar was the place I fell in love with.
We travelled from Split by ferry, which took approximately an hour, and I was immediately taken with the island.
The harbour is beautiful, with waterfront restaurants and cafés overlooking the boats. Behind it, the streets wind through the old town, and there’s a lovely atmosphere that makes you want to slow down and enjoy your surroundings.
Hvar has a stylish feel to it, but I also found it very relaxed. I could easily imagine spending several days here, enjoying the island without having a packed itinerary.
We stayed at the Amfora Hotel, which was absolutely beautiful. I was fortunate enough to have a sea view room, and the views were wonderful.
Although we only had one night on Hvar, I really enjoyed the hotel and would happily return for a longer stay.
Exploring Some of Hvar’s Hotels
As this was a hosted trip, we also had the opportunity to inspect other accommodation on the island.
One of these was Palace Elisabeth, Hvar Heritage Hotel, a luxury property overlooking the main square. It’s a beautiful building and offers a very different experience from the Amfora.
We also visited the newly renovated Sirena Resort, which I thought was particularly lovely. It was interesting to see another option away from the atmosphere of the main harbour.
During our evening on Hvar, we enjoyed dinner at Adriana Hvar Spa Hotel, overlooking the waterfront.
It was a beautiful setting for dinner and another opportunity to enjoy the atmosphere of Hvar.
For me, these hotel visits were particularly worthwhile. Being able to see the properties for myself and understand their locations is so much more useful than relying entirely on photographs when advising clients.
What became clear was that Hvar offers quite different holiday experiences depending on where you choose to stay.
And if I had the opportunity to return tomorrow, I wouldn’t hesitate.
The Pakleni Islands: Waters That Rival the Caribbean
One of my favourite experiences was our private boat excursion around the Pakleni Islands, just off the coast of Hvar.
I don’t think I was quite prepared for just how beautiful the water would be.
The colours were incredible, and the sea was so clear that you could see straight through to the seabed in places. I genuinely thought the waters gave the Caribbean a run for its money.
We explored some lovely sheltered coves and had the opportunity to swim and snorkel. Seeing the coastline from the boat was wonderful, and it gave us a completely different perspective of the islands.
We also visited Palmižana on Sveti Klement, where we enjoyed lunch at the Meneghello estate.
I would certainly recommend including a boat excursion when visiting Hvar. There are some beautiful places along this coastline that you simply wouldn’t experience in the same way from land.
What struck me was that we had scenery and water comparable to destinations much further afield, yet Croatia is only a short flight from the UK.
Would I Recommend Croatia to Mature Travellers?
Absolutely, although I would say that choosing the right location is important.
There is so much to enjoy in Croatia, particularly for people who like exploring historic towns and experiencing the local way of life.
However, some of the places we visited involved considerably more walking than others.
The historic centres of Split and Trogir have cobbled streets, while attractions such as Klis Fortress involve steps and uneven ground. This is something I would certainly discuss with clients who have mobility concerns.
Hvar is also worth considering carefully when choosing accommodation, particularly if being close to the harbour or avoiding steep walks is important.
I was pleasantly surprised by how straightforward our ferry journey between Split and Hvar was. Taking approximately an hour each way, it made travelling between the two destinations feel very manageable.
I think a holiday combining Split with a few nights on Hvar would work particularly well. You could spend time exploring the mainland before enjoying a more leisurely stay on the island.
It’s certainly a combination I would recommend considering.
What I Took Away From the Trip
One of the reasons I value opportunities like this is that they allow me to experience a destination from the perspective of the people I book holidays for.
It’s easy to look at beautiful hotel photographs or read about excursions, but that doesn’t always tell you how suitable somewhere will be for a particular traveller.
Having stayed in the hotels, travelled on the ferries and explored the towns myself, I now have a much better understanding of what to recommend and what practical considerations are worth discussing.
The trip also introduced me to experiences I might not otherwise have considered, particularly our lunch at Dragica’s home.
I came away feeling that Croatia has far more to offer than I had previously appreciated.
Croatia, I’ll Be Back!
Five days certainly wasn’t enough to see everything, but it gave me a wonderful introduction to the Dalmatian coast.
I loved the atmosphere of Split and the spectacular sunset at Klis Fortress. Our visit to Dragica’s home was a particularly special experience, and the boat trip around the Pakleni Islands was unforgettable.
But if I had to choose somewhere to return to first, it would be Hvar.
There’s just something about the island that I absolutely loved, and one night was nowhere near enough.
I arrived in Croatia expecting beautiful scenery, but I came home having discovered a destination that offers so much more.
And with such a short flight from Manchester, I really have no excuse not to return!
I travelled on a hosted familiarisation trip in association with the Croatian Tourist Board. All opinions and experiences shared are my own
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