Norway’s Western Fjords feature on many a bucket list. Gillian Thornton enjoyed a shoulder-season, no-fly cruise.
When it comes to seasonal changes, few destinations can match the magic of Norway’s famous Fjordland. Only winter is strictly for the locals, a season of immense beauty when Norwegian skiers take to the slopes, but excursions by road can be unpredictable and shallow waters far inland can soon ice over.
But that leaves three very different seasons in which to enjoy Norway’s magical scenery and there is no better way to do it than by cruise ship. Choose summer for long hours of daylight when the sun barely sets below the horizon, or try a shoulder season cruise for yet another perspective on this spectacular landscape.
Watch fresh spring hues transform the waterside meadows beneath peaks still brushed with snow or do as I did and explore these sinewy fingers of seawater as autumn changes the foliage from yellow to russet and gold.
No-fly from London
My husband and I chose a no-fly cruise in mid-September from London-Tilbury with Ambassador Cruise Line, making a welcome return on board Ambience, their flagship vessel with capacity for 1400 passengers. We love the size and atmosphere of this traditional ship that quickly feels like home.
With seven UK ports to choose from, Ambassador understandably attracts passengers from the local catchment areas. But whilst the Art Deco cruise terminal in Tilbury is barely an hour’s drive from our home, we always meet guests who have travelled from further afield, attracted by the combination of ship, itinerary and ease of access by rail, coach or private car.
Having booked a space in the quayside car park, we had only to hand over our suitcases to the waiting staff, cross the road with our hand luggage, and pass the taxi rank to the terminal. And having checked in on line from home, it took only minutes to obtain our key card and head for the gangplank. Norway, here we come.
Planning your holiday
Our nine-day itinerary included three sea days – of which more later – and five port stops where passengers could choose to take an organised excursion from the ship; explore independently; or even just stay and enjoy the activities on board.
We wanted to see as much of this spectacular country as possible, so booked an excursion at every destination. Ambassador offer a good choice, but early booking is strongly advised to avoid disappointment as popular trips can quickly fill up. Itineraries vary, making Norway’s Fjordland a destination that can deliver something different on every cruise.
Most trips visit Bergen, a bustling and beautiful harbour city tucked inland at the end of a fjord and backed by high peaks. We also visited Stavanger, a former fishing port that is now hub of the North Sea oil and gas industry. But other destinations can be considerably smaller, so be aware that they may not offer a lot to do if you decide not to book an excursion.
And everything closes on Sunday. We spent a pleasant Sunday morning wandering around the deserted streets of pretty Andalsnes but were glad we had booked an afternoon coach trip to visit one of Norway’s last remaining wooden stave churches. So pretty against the rich autumn colours of the wooded slopes and waterside cattle meadows.
Choose your own pace
Ambassador offered several ‘@ease’ excursions that showcased the Norwegian scenery but involved minimal walking. Chose a city walking tour and you know what to expect, but bear in mind that these can also involve periods of standing, which can be uncomfortable to anyone with mobility issues.
But for more active guests, there were hikes too from some ports, notably during the visit to the Flam railway, one of Europe’s most scenic lines. Built in 1940, initially to carry goods from fjord level to join the main Bergen-Oslo line at Myrdal, the single track (with passing places) twists and turns through 20 tunnels as it climbs more than 800 metres. We chose a return trip by rail with time for a waffle stop in a mountain hotel, but some opted to walk part of the way back before rejoining the train.
John and I enjoyed our own adrenalin rush next day on a thrilling RIB safari. Kitted out in waterproof one-piece suits and anti-wind googles, we sat astride high seats in the Rigid Inflatable Boat as our pilot hit the accelerator and steered us expertly across the still waters of Nordfjord, stopping periodically to point out landmarks and serve up tiny tastings of local specialities. Huge fun.
Life on Board
We quickly slipped into a routine for both sea days and excursion days, eating breakfast and lunch in the self-service Borough Market restaurant, but dinner in the waiter-service Buckingham restaurant. Both, however, open for three meals a day. We were impressed by the variety and the presentation of dishes in the Buckingham and – always impressive – vegetables that arrived hot and perfectly cooked.
We also enjoyed the intimate surroundings of the two speciality restaurants for a modest supplement. A seven-course tasting menu in Sea and Grass, and delicious Indian fare in Saffron. The menus do not change, but were so good that we would happily eat them again.
Every day – whether at sea or in port – Ambience serves up a full programme of no-cost activities from quizzes to crafts, pool and hot tubs to dance classes and darts. But there is no pressure to join in if, like us, you just enjoy relaxing in your cabin with a good book or in one of the comfortable lounges with waiter service. John did, however, indulge himself in the wine tasting, whilst I enjoyed an excellent Swedish massage in the Green Sea Spa (extra charge).
Every evening after an early dinner, we would watch the sun set from our Balcony Cabin or sometimes from the upper deck. Then take our place in the Palladium theatre for the first performance of the twice-nightly show by the excellent team of resident singers and dancers.
After a day in the fresh Norwegian air, we retired early and never did make it to the panoramic Observatory for live music or disco dancing. Maybe next time…
Find out more
To book your own Ambassador cruise, or to get more information from our Silver Travel Advisors call 0800 412 5678.
