Marion Ainge goes overboard for a Variety Cruises’ motor yacht Greek island cruise
It’s a challenging climb of 300 steep stone steps to the visually incredible, cliffside, 2nd century BC Monastery of Hozzoviotissa, located in Amorgos. Considered to be the ‘Jewel of the Cycladic crown’, it stands at 400m above sea level and resembles a snow drift embedded in a rocky ridge. It’s not easy to reach this stunning island but climbers and adventurers are rewarded by the delights of a small Utopia.
I’m delighted to be on a seven-night Variety Cruises’ motor yacht voyage around the Unexplored Islands of Greece. Seafarer Cruises are a world apart from traditional ocean cruises on multi-decked ships with non-stop entertainment and hundreds of passengers. This is an adventure at sea.
Sunlight glitters on the Aegean as I cross the gangway to receive a warm welcome from members of the wonderful crew on the sleek, white, three-masted Panorama, docked in Sea Marina, Piraeus, the ancient, main port of Athens. I unpack quickly in my roomy, air-conditioned, twin-bed, below-deck cabin (cleaned twice daily) with an en suite shower room, tv, mini-fridge and port hole. But at just 5ft in height, even on tiptoes, I can’t see out of it! Nor can I reach the safe cupboard, so a sturdy, little set of three steps is speedily brought in.
The wood-panelled lounge/restaurant is tastefully and comfortably furnished with large windows and pristine, white-clothed tables. Both sundecks have plenty of sun loungers and seating areas. On a breezy day, we’re thrilled to watch the sails being hoisted aloft alongside the fluttering, blue and white Greek flag. The walnut, upper deck bar is a favourite haunt for a pre-dinner cocktail or post-dinner drinks under the stars.
Variety Cruises’ family business was established in 1949. The company has gained the Passenger Line of the year Award (Greek Shipping Awards). There are eight motor sailers in the fleet and alternative voyages include Albania, Tahiti, The Seychelles, Africa, Croatia and Italy plus Malta and French Polynesia.
In the Dodecanese Greek island of Ikaria, on average people live 10 years longer than other Europeans and the USA. Three small glasses of wine, ‘the elixir of life’, slow living, climate, exercise, healthy eating and low stress levels contribute to the fact that one in three inhabitants live into their 90s.
Grains, herbs, home-grown vegetables and bread, herbs, olive oil, honey and a small amount of goat meat comprise the diet of locals. On this Blue Zone small Aegean island, older folk keep their own time frame. Residents tend to stay up late to chat and play dominos, with little reason to rise early in the mornings. Bathing in Ikaria’s thermal hot springs, famed for their healing properties and considered to be among the world’s best, helps with arthritis.
Excitedly, the 34 passengers gather on deck as the ship sets sail, passing Cape Sounion, seeing the remains of Poseidon’s temple perched on the headland. We’re a multi-cultural group aged from around 50 but mainly in the 60-70 age range. Adventurers from Australia, Canada and the USA are onboard with some from the UK. We bond quickly. As the only solo traveller, I’m always invited to join others for breakfast, lunch and/or dinner. Mainly buffet meals are plentiful, varied and delicious. Every day is different. Tenders take people to quiet beaches and return later, there are stops for off-the-boat swimmers and opportunities to visit new, unexplored Greek islands.
According to mythology, until Moon Goddess Selene shined over Patmos, the island was on the sea bed. Patmos is linked with Christianity, and known as the ‘Mini Jerusalem of the Aegean Sea’. in the capital, Chora, a jigsaw of white-washed houses surrounds the maze of tiny streets and the predominant UNESCO World Heritage Site, Monastery of St John the Theologian, built 1088 as a fort to prevent pirate invasions.
If you ever wondered where the natural sponge in your bathroom was sourced, it’s quite probably Kalymnos, known as the sponge-fishing island. Up to the late 1970s, wives and mothers prayed as brave sponge divers went to sea. They risked their lives or paralysis, holding their breath and diving to depths of up to 50 metres to tear sponges from the sea bed. Although today, with diving equipment and full-training, sponge-fishing still continues, Kalymnos promotes itself as a tourist destination. The island is also popular with rock climbers.
The evening highlight on board is a traditional Greek night, when we savour Kleftiko, Moussaka, Dolmades, Souvlaki, fresh salads, Hummus, Tzatziki and, of course, sweet, honey-soaked, nutty Baklava. On this starlit night, Greek dancers come aboard to showcase their skills and encourage us to join them for the Zorba circle.
In Serifos I’m Shirley Valentine. I sit happily alone at a square table with a glass of wine, as I gaze out over the crystal-clear waters of the turquoise Aegean Sea. Known as the Island of Lovers, it’s the discovery site of the Venus de Milo (Aphrodite) in 1820, and is a tranquil island of beauty. I didn’t find my Costas but as I wander back dreamily to the Panorama, I meet a group of friendly Australians from the ship. One of them grabs me by the arm, saying insistently, ‘Come and have a drink with us!’
That Shirley Valentine dream is cut short but genuine friendships are made on my adventure at sea!
Find out more
Variety Cruises has a wide range of small ship island-hopping cruises throughout the Mediterranean which are available in the UK through Variety’s UK agent Seafarer Cruises.
To book a Variety cruise, or get more information from our Silver Travel Advisors, call 0800 412 5678.
