There’s a unique sense of bustle and excitement when boarding a night sleeper train, especially in a foreign country. I know it’s mainly down to the cultural fantasies of Agatha Christie and James Bond but there’s still a novel tingle of expectation.
Once settled into my cabin I get off, like almost everyone else, and stare up and down the platform as if expecting a sudden last minute message or some forgotten lover to rush up to me. Clearly I’ve been watching too many old B/W films.
My night train to Vienna left Krakow at 9.59 on the dot. My sole occupancy cabin was a 91-euro reservation/supplement and was good value as it saved a night’s hotel cost and ate up the miles to Vienna without my noticing it.
I lock my cabin door just in case some murder mystery adventure happens before Vienna – but it doesn’t.
There are few luxury frills on public night trains but I still find they are an excellent way to travel. The cabin was around 8 x 10 feet with a curtain to hide clothes and bags, two high shelves, a wall cabinet, a shelf with a sink and water within, electric sockets and reading lights. There was no dining car, because most people have recently had dinner and in-cabin refreshments consist of bottled water, an apple drink, croissant and a Mars bar.
The toilet is at the end of the carriage and I didn’t sleep deeply but dozed regularly, the real joy of a cabin is the privacy and the ability to stretch out and be comfortable.
Half an hour before we arrive the guard brings a wake up cup of coffee and then it’s Vienna – the city of Johann Strauss, elegant waltzes, dancing horses, Sachertorte, strudel and for me the best bratwurst ever.
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