Alaska beckons

Steve Newman

If you think you’ve visited Alaska on a cruise, think again. Steve Newman explains why HX Expeditions have blown Alaskan cruising wide open.

Alaska is one of the big draws when it comes to Silver Traveller cruising. This normally means the wonders of the Inside Passage northwards from Vancouver and visiting the stunning Glacier National Park. There is however much more to see in this amazing place where the incredible unforgettable wildlife encounters are matched only by the unequalled scenery. This cruise also takes you to The Aleutian Islands an area not often visited by UK cruise ships, so you also get serious bragging rights!

The cruise

I took the Alaska and British Columbia cruise with HX Expeditions which took in the Inside Passage but swung out to the Aleutians to encounter whales, glaciers and bears and I have to say it is one of the best cruises I have ever done.

Don’t think that an expedition cruise means you are roughing it. Far from it, the Roald Amundsen is a top-notch vessel with sauna, gym and some of the best food I have encountered at sea. There are three restaurants on board with one, The Lindstrøm, offering fine dining which is free to suite guests but can be booked by other passengers at a small price.

The ship also has hybrid powered propulsion which means you are doing your bit for the environment too whilst you are on board.

City markets and gas-powered clocks

The cruise started in Vancouver where we visited the city’s Grayling Island a hotch potch of galleries, studios, restaurants and the bustling Public Market which is full of local produce and should not be missed. Take time too to visit Gastown an area of the city with street artists, have a go craft stalls and its Big Ben tower steam clock!

As we sailed northwards the ship’s PA system told us of Orcas on the bow or Bald Eagles flying overhead. Heading further north Albatrosses soared around the ship and we joined by a Sperm Whale as we sailed over the deepest part of the world’s oceans, The Aleutian Trench. This was matched by some of us observing a Brown Bear amble slowly along the beach as they watched no more than sixty yards away from our zodiac and seals popping their heads up above the ice flows with the three glaciers of Icy Bay as a backdrop.

Taking the scientific route

If you want to get deeper into  your cruise you can choose how much the local wildlife and the world’s ecosystems play a part in it as there is a dedicated science centre where you can gather information as you go along, conduct research and examine what you have found and add it to the global data bank of knowledge.

The ship’s team of up to 17 scientists, historians, and cultural experts cover a range of cultural and scientific disciplines all aimed at enriching your experience whilst on board by matching what you see on the excursions with activities in the educational programme.

If you would like to pursue a certain line of study the team will help and guide you along that route and encourage you to continue these activities when you leave the cruise.

Going Native

There were many lectures and coffee chats, and some of the most impressive were given by Norma, a member of the Yup’ik Tribe, whose people have lived along the Bering Sea coast of Western Alaska for over 3,000 years, according to archaeological evidence. Throughout the cruise, Norma shared her culture and heritage with us through moving stories of her grandparents, traditional dance, and song. Her presence onboard was a true highlight and a masterstroke by HX in bringing meaningful cultural connection to the journey.

You can take this even further by joining the included excursions to see a wooden Clan House and a collection of totem poles and learn of their meaning and purpose. There is also an included excursion to The Museum of the Aleutians at Dutch Harbour which has a mission to collect, preserve, and share the rich cultural legacy of the Aleutian Islands Region. The museum hosts an actively growing collection of artifacts covering Native culture, Russian, American, WWII, and local history and is not to be missed.

Getting your feet wet

Many of the transfers from ship to land are by Zodiac and often you will wade through the waves on landings. HX provide waterproof boots you keep throughout the cruise for this and a storm proof expedition jacket which you can take home with you. These zodiac trips really make this cruise such a memorable experience. On one occasion we were almost surrounded by Sea Otters sleeping sedately on their backs, some with cubs on their chests.

Everyday has either a zodiac excursion to a small island or nature cruise or a landing at a port via tender or a berthing at the towns harbour where you can take some of the included excursions if you wish.

At Nome, for example, I went to see The Musk Ox on the tundra and tried my hand at gold panning whilst at Sitka I went to the Bald Eagle centre where we watched a video and experienced one of these magnificent birds close up. We also visited the deserted village on the Island of Unga a fascinating trip, but I drew the line at joining those who took a plunge in the waters of bay!

Taking excursions

There are many additional excursions which I strongly advise you to book before you leave for the cruise as they can fill up quickly. I took a hike up to the 2nd World War fortifications at Dutch Harbour the only part of the United States to be occupied by The Japanese during the war.

Do remember that this is an expedition cruise and the weather can change and make some zodiac landings impossible. You can’t always guarantee for example you will see the bears in Katmai National Park; on our visit not all the zodiacs saw Brown Bears up close (but not too close so as not to distress the animals). I was one of the unfortunate ones, but I was able to see them from the ship with my binoculars which are an absolute must for you to bring as they will enrich your cruise tremendously.

Bragging rights

Part of the cruise is a landing on Matthew Island in the Bering Sea. We were told that more people have stood on the top of Everest than landed on the island in the which also holds America’s rarest bird as the swell is usually so high.

On our cruise the weather gave us blue sky and flat calm sea so were able to explore for two hours via the zodiacs. Serious bragging rights around the dinner table!

This cruise was an unforgettable experience, and your memories will stay you as a photo album of trip is sent to you a few days later. With so much going on I can heartily recommend it as one to be considered for your next cruise.

Next steps

Call Silver Travel Advisor on 0800 014 5678 to plan and book a cruise to Alaska.

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Steve Newman

Eco Adventure Cruising writer & photographer

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