Having flown from Trinidad to Tobago, a 50-minute drive took us to the Cuffie River Nature Retreat, located on the edge of the oldest protected rainforest in the western hemisphere.
The two-storey eco-lodge had ten rooms and on arrival, we were met by the diminutive owner Regina, who, despite being in her 80s, scampered up the terracotta tiled stairs, leaving us following in her wake trailing our suitcases. Room eight was spacious with two queen-size beds with colourful blue and white bedspreads and pillows, and a central bedside table and light. The room was well equipped with an easy chair and table, large wardrobe with a safe, tea and coffee making facilities and a flask of boiled water. It had an incredibly high ceiling and due to a lack of central lighting, we found it a little dark.
The blue bathroom was similarly large with a walk-in shower with pull-around curtain and solar-heated hot, powerful water. There was plenty of space for our toiletries with basic complimentary ones being provided. In keeping with their environmental theme, towels were not changed during our three-night stay.
Our large balcony had two easy chairs overlooking the forest, hummingbird feeders, and fruit tables which attracted a variety of birds. Regina recommended keeping the doors open at all times and despite being skeptical about biting creatures during the night, we remained unscathed and cool.
Likewise, Regina didn’t provide keys to the rooms unless specifically requested.
MEALS
Set meals were served at a fixed time, so any dietary requirements had to be notified in advance. Local ladies, June and Sharon took turns in the kitchen to provide well-presented food cooked with locally sourced ingredients. The tables were always impeccably set, with the food being served in dishes from which we could serve ourselves.
During our stay, the only other guests were a British couple, and as we got on well, we shared the majority of our meals with them.
Breakfast (8am) comprised of a carafe of chilled juice, platter of watermelon, banana and papaya, and a dish of a tasty granola. There was a basket of lightly toasted homemade bread and jam, and a hot option like fried eggs with bacon or omelettes. Filter coffee and tea were also available.
Lunch at 1pm was light, but incredibly tasty and I’m undecided on whether I preferred saltfish wontons or Trini Pastelles the most. On leaving, we were provided with a packed lunch.
Our 7pm dinner began with salad, before a fish or meat dish, rice or potatoes, vegetables and beans. Dessert was ice cream, with my favourite being one with huge chocolate chunks and nuts. During dinner, we drank reasonably priced bottles of local Stag or Carib beer.
ACTIVITIES
Our stay included a walk with the in-house guide Desmond, who arrived at 9am wielding a huge machete. Having walked down the drive lined with brightly-coloured cordyline bushes, we turned off and climbed a grassy former donkey track through a woodland forest. Although the going was relatively easy, we had to contend with muddy areas and steeper sections with Desmond wielding the machete to cut back the ubiquitous bamboo when our path was blocked.
Unfortunately, despite several claims that ‘we’ll get a better view a bit further round’ these rarely materialised, and our sightings were not as impressive or extensive as I’d anticipated. However, we did catch fleeting glimpses of several birds I’d seen earlier in Trinidad including the bearded bellbird, purple red-legged honeycreeper, yellow-breasted bananaquit, and difficult to pronounce violaceous euphonia.
We spotted pineapple growing on a hillside, bread fruit trees and banana groves with Desmond pointing out the immortelle tree with its bright orange flowers, huge nettles with spiky leaves, mimosa and tropical milkweed.
Desmond also spoke passionately about issues which were obviously close to his heart. These included: the oil industry ‘the oil from the coast of Tobago is taken to refineries in Trinidad’; Government corruption with voters swapping coloured jumpers to reflect their allegiance to a political party; the building of a bridge to link the two islands’; and crime ‘criminals always get caught as they boast on social media’.
During our four-hour circular walk, tropical storms meant sheltering twice, once under the cover of banana leaves, and in a shed with a rather surprised goat. When the final flurry of rain hit, we made a dash back to the house, despite it being up a steep hill.
On our free day, and in better weather, we retraced our walk along the road. The light breeze kept the tall bamboo creaking and swaying dangerously, and at one point, a dried piece literally fell directly down. Once again, birds were rare, but our best sighting was a long horseshoe whip snake which slithered out from the dried leaves and across the road in front of us – fortunately Desmond had told us the previous day that Tobago does not have venomous snakes.
There was plenty of communal spaces to sit, either in the main house or outside, where we could relax with a book from the well-stocked library, which included ‘Memoir of a Cocoa Farmer’s Daughter’ written by Regina.
Unfortunately, on the two occasions we visited a wooden viewing deck, it rained. However, during spells of sunshine, we used the large and refreshing chlorine-free, saltwater swimming pool which had plenty of loungers and chairs.
Regina told us that the BBC security correspondent Frank Gardner had stayed the week before us, and the fact he is a wheelchair user speaks volumes about Regina’s work to make her accommodation accessible. Frank is President of the British Trust for Ornithology, and his Facebook page showed several fabulous bird photos taken whilst staying at Cuffie, so perhaps we were just unlucky.
