Having had 11 short breaks in Venice – 6 of them in November, 4 in October and 1 in May – I thought I’d sum up the reasons the majority have been in November so that others can benefit from our experiences.
If we want to save money – which we generally do – we go for a short break in early in November as the hotel prices (at least in the hotel we always use) drop considerably once October is over and weatherwise the first week in November is very similar to the last week in October! Going through my photographs brings back memories of our first holiday, which was in November, and it did rain and that year (2010,) the acqua alta caused flooding in St Mark’s Square and we had to walk on duckboards to get to St Mark’s. However, MOSE, the tidal barrier constructed to protect Venice from high water, means that these very bad floods are fewer, although we did see water lapping over the sides of canals in some places last year. In other years we’ve had fog early in the day that added to the atmosphere but it soon cleared and we explored in beautiful sunshine. Some years it’s been endless sunshine and although the sun is lower, it means one has to carefully pick seats outside cafes that catch the very last rays of sun; this is particularly true in some campos, for example Campo Santa Maria Formosa, which is one of my favourite places for people watching. In November it will be easier to get a seat on the front deck of an older vaporetto – Line 1 is the route that goes along the Grand Canal – but wearing a warm coat is advised; it can be cold.
November sees fewer tourists in Venice, although people are now hearing about the advantages of visiting then so numbers are rising. Obviously the days are shorter but Venice is a good city for walking around after dark. I think the atmosphere in St Mark’s Square is better in the evening than during the day.
It’s a good idea to check websites of places you particularly want to visit to make sure they will be open while you are there and if they are whether the opening times are shorter in November. If wanting to visit the islands the vaporetti services to San Giorgio Maggiore, Giudecca, San Michele (the city cemetery), Murano, Mazzorbo/Burano will still be frequent but the hop across to Torcello from Mazzorbo possibly less frequent and probably on a smaller boat. The quiet market garden island of Sant’ Erasmo is probably best left for a spring/summer visit. I wouldn’t recommend going to Lido in November as most of it will be shut – everything was still boarded up when we went in May and only due to be opened up in June. The Alilaguna service might also have fewer sailings in the off season.
There will be plenty to see and do in Castello, San Marco, Cannaregio, San Polo, Santa Croce and Dorsoduro. Those who like art, churches, museums and palaces will never run out of things to do. The Architecture or Art Biennales run from May to November and a Biennale ticket is worth the money if only to get inside the Arsenale, which is amazing. However, a few of the free Biennale events held in various buildings throughout Venice close earlier than November.
November 1st is All Saints Day – a public holiday in Italy.
November 11th is St Martin’s Day when school children hold simple processions around the city, banging saucepans and wearing crowns and cloaks; in the evening they go to shops and cafes and the owners give them sweets.
Weekends are the busiest days for hotels as many visitors from other parts of Italy, from France and Germany etc. arrive to spend a couple of nights in Venice. Organised running events around the city also add to the number of visitors at weekends, although I think the marathon is usually at the end of October.
We’ve just booked to go again in November this year!
(All the photographs shown here were taken in November in either 2010, 2012, 2015, 2018, 2023 or 2024.)
