Wine tasting was a key feature on our tour of Moldova, but our favourite culinary experience was visiting La Tanti Masha, translated as ‘At Auntie Masha’s’, in the village of Slobozia Mare, in the southern part of the country.
Tanti Masha has become something of a Moldovan celebrity for preserving an old family recipe for handmade couscous, a tradition that has almost disappeared elsewhere in Moldova.
We were greeted warmly with our guide translating Tanti Masha’s enthusiastic introduction in which she explained that she had trained as an accountant, but spent 44 years working as a chef, preparing food for celebrations and community gatherings. Her time is now devoted to preserving and passing on traditional recipes.
The demonstration took place in a rustic outbuilding where we were introduced to the covată, a traditional wooden trough carved from willow, which was once an indispensable item in rural households. Having added crushed wheat, Tanti Masha gradually added beaten egg before sprinkling in flour, patiently rubbing the mixture between her hands until it formed tiny, coarse grains of couscous. The finished grains were spread out on a towel to dry naturally for two to three days before being stored in paper bags for up to four months. When ready to eat, the couscous would be simmered in chicken stock to add flavour for around ten minutes before being left to rest for another half hour.
Like many rural entrepreneurs we encountered in Moldova, Tanti Masha has benefited from European Union grants, enabling her to continue promoting local food traditions.
She has also gained international recognition through her appearance in the Flavours of Romania and Moldova documentary series. Unfortunately, we could not track down the episode despite numerous references to it online.
The visit concluded in the best possible way, with food. We sampled her freshly cooked couscous, served with tender chicken and a spicy chilli jam, before tasting crackers and four of her homemade preserves made from fig, Damascus rose petal, elderflower and cherry tomato. All were surprisingly distinctive, but the rose petal was our favourite, and we bought a jar for 60 Lei (£2.70).
This was more than just a cooking demonstration it allowed us a glimpse in to a way of life where recipes, traditions and hospitality are being handed down through the generations.
