Nord Rural is a small guesthouse, or agropension, located in the tiny village of Zăbriceni in Moldova. It is so far off the beaten track that we had to phone ahead for directions, and our host, Sergiu, kindly drove out to meet us and escort us to the property.
On arrival, we were welcomed by his wife, Mihaela, who offered us a choice between two countryside cottages. The larger, restored in a traditional green and white Moldovan style, had two bedrooms and was perfect for our guide and driver, Natalia and Leonid. We chose the smaller cottage, modern in design, but with traditional touches. A beautiful dowry chest, which once belonged to Mihaela’s grandmother, stood at the entrance and made an ideal spot for our suitcases.
The open-plan kitchen and living area was modern, well-equipped, and surprisingly spacious. In contrast to the contemporary furnishings, part of the original stove wall had been retained, providing a link to the building’s heritage before its redevelopment and extension. The room included a sofa bed, dining table and chairs, a fridge-freezer, and all the facilities needed for self-catering. The décor had a distinctly Scandinavian feel, with more than a hint of IKEA.
The bedroom was simple but comfortable, with a double bed, bedside tables and lamps, and a hanging rail for clothes. Mihaela explained that the cottage was still a work in progress, having only recently opened to guests.
The bathroom was large and modern, featuring an excellent walk-in shower with plentiful and powerful hot water, a heated towel rail, and even a washing machine.
After we unpacked, Mihaela invited us for drinks in the dining area attached to our cottage and uncorked a bottle of ASCONI Casa Felina Sauvignon Blanc. Over wine, we learned how their personal countryside retreat had gradually evolved into a tourism project aimed at preserving traditional Moldovan rural architecture while offering visitors an authentic village experience. We also discovered that Mihaela, whose day job is with the tourism board, had designed our 17 night itinerary. It was lovely to be able to compliment her on how varied and well planned our trip was and in turn, she was keen to meet travellers who had booked such a long trip.
Although we had not planned to eat, having enjoyed a substantial lunch earlier in the day, we were all invited to join Sergiu and Mihaela for a barbecue. The fire was lit and chicken skewers were grilled and served alongside a mixed salad, with pickled gherkins and tomatoes prepared by Mihaela’s mother-in-law, and freshly baked bread. The simple meal was excellent and provided a wonderful opportunity to feel part of the family for an evening.
Breakfast, served at 8am, was a feast. A generous platter of fried eggs, three varieties of sliced meat, cheese and salad, was followed by a stack of pancakes. Brown and white breads were served with homemade butter from the village, and delicious raspberry and plum jams.
The village itself was exceptionally peaceful. The only sounds were those of a neighbour’s billy goat demanding attention by banging his head against a fence, cockerels crowing, and the occasional barking dog. The property also featured a large cellar, proudly displaying the date 1927 above its door, and a traditional well. There was also a strikingly modern sauna and hot tub on site, which unfortunately we did not have time to try.
Nord Rural offered far more than just accommodation. It provided a genuine insight into rural Moldovan life, generous, warm hospitality, and a blend of heritage preservation and modern comfort. It was yet another memorable stay on a trip of memorable stays.
