A two-night stay at the Eco Resort Butuceni provided an insight into rural Moldovan life. Located in the heart of Butuceni village, the ‘resort’ is a cluster of restored cottages gathered behind a rustic wooden gate, giving the impression you’ve wandered into a tiny rural hamlet rather than checked into a hotel.
Our cottage had character and traditional features. A large hall featured a long wooden bench draped with a boldly patterned floral carpet, a matching carpet on the wall, and a small wood-burning stove in the wall, which we were assured would be lit later in the evening. Beyond this was the bedroom/living room with a single bed and a traditional lejancă – a raised double sleeping platform built into a recess and warmed from beneath by another stove. However, in a nod to modernity there was air conditioning and a TV which for us was unnecessary.
The whitewashed walls were adorned with icons, embroidered textiles and another giant carpet of pink roses, designed to provide insulation. Colourful striped rugs covered the floor, and lace curtains hung at the windows. There was a small dining table and chairs, but storage consisted of a simple hanging rail and hangers. There was a shortage of accessible power sockets and no bedside tables or reading lights.
The bathroom was functional rather than luxurious. It contained a shower over a small bath, although maintaining a comfortable water temperature proved challenging, with the water fluctuating between lukewarm and scalding. The shower spray was rather weak and attempts to adjust it resulted in water spraying across the room. There were hooks for towels and a hairdryer, but the socket nearest the mirror was not working during our stay. Toiletries were not provided, and there was little space to store personal items.
One of the highlights of our stay was experiencing the traditional heating system. As promised, Angelika arrived to light the stove, feeding logs through a small opening in the wall, and igniting them with a fierce gas-powered flame blower. Given the size of the cottage, we wondered how effective the system would be. The answer was remarkably effective as the stove heated the wall which separated the bedroom and bathroom, creating a wonderfully cosy environment that lasted overnight.
The restaurant was located about 250 yards from the cottages, requiring a short walk through the village. On our first evening we arrived in the rain and initially found ourselves the only diners. We ordered a litre of the house white wine, plăcintă, a pie filled with cottage cheese, and potato dumplings served with fried onions and the ever-present sour cream. Everything was tasty although the pastry lacked the crispness of similar pies we had enjoyed elsewhere in Moldova.
As the evening progressed, the restaurant became unexpectedly busy. First a group of three travellers arrived seeking accommodation, followed shortly afterwards by another group of four. All stayed to eat before the kitchen closed at 9pm, creating a livelier atmosphere than we had anticipated. The total bill came to just 325 lei (around £14), so excellent value. Dinner on our second evening was quieter, as we were the only guests. We chose meatballs in tomato sauce, home-baked potatoes, and pickled vegetables, accompanied by another generous helping of local wine. The meal was simple but very enjoyable, and the total bill of 380 lei (approximately £17) again represented excellent value.
Our first breakfast had been described as buffet style although it turned out to be a banquet delivered directly to our table. Alongside excellent Americanos with hot milk came an astonishing array of food: three fried eggs and two triangles of omelette, four sausages, cold meats, cheese, fresh cucumbers, tomatoes and radishes, pickled mushrooms, sour cream, bread, doughnuts, jam, and slices of sweet cozonac cake. It was a generous spread that would have comfortably fed more than two people, and despite our best efforts we failed to do it justice but did as well as possible over a second coffee.
On the second day, breakfast was served in the reception building, where the same impressive selection of local dishes was laid out buffet-style on a communal table.
There was also a small outdoor swimming pool, though it was too early in the season for anyone to be using it during our visit.
We enjoyed our slice of rural life, as Butuceni is a genuine village rather than a tourist resort. Facilities are limited, with little more than a nearby small local shop selling essentials but not much more. However, that simplicity was part of the appeal. Combined with the hearty home-cooked food, the beautiful surroundings of the Orheiul Vechi region and the traditional accommodation with its unusual heating system, it was an unforgettable stay.
