An expedition voyage with HX Expeditions blends wild landscapes, rich heritage and moments of thrilling (and chilling) exhilaration
As I walked towards the restaurant it was clear something unusual had happened. Fellow guests were hurrying out towards me and dinner plates had been abandoned mid-meal. The reason soon became apparent as Captain Raymond Martinsen’s voice came over the PA system to MS Spitsbergen to say the Northern Lights had made an appearance.
Quickly grabbing a coat and hat from my cabin, I went out on the top deck to join them and we gathered together in our hastily assembled assortment of warm clothes. As I gazed upwards, ribbons of green light cut a swathe across the night sky. It was a fitting reminder that on a journey like this it’s nature that sets the agenda, and mealtimes can be flexible.
Our seven-night voyage with HX Expeditions is certainly far removed from a conventional cruise. Instead, it offers an immersive exploration of Arctic Norway, one that weaves together natural beauty, deep-rooted heritage and authentic cultural encounters. For silver travellers, it also provides comfort, enrichment and adventure in equal measure.
Ultimate Norway – Arctic Expedition under the Northern Lights is a new itinerary from HX, the world’s oldest expedition cruise brand. Celebrating its 130th anniversary this year, since 1896 HX has been taking curious travellers to remote and awe-inspiring destinations.
Our journey began in Tromso, the world’s northernmost city known as the gateway due to its location 217 miles north of the Arctic Circle. A 19th century base for explorers and hunters, its frontier-like history can be explored in the Polar Museum. While many visitors gravitate towards landmarks such as the eye-catching triangular Arctic Cathedral, built in 1965 and inspired by ice and snow. I had been to the cathedral and museum before, so opted for something more whimsical as I waited to board the ship. The Troll Museum, right on the waterfront, is a quirky tribute to Norway’s mythical creatures and fun place to visit.
Moored nearby, I got my first sight, MS Spitsbergen. From the outside, its sturdy, ice-strengthened design hinted at practicality rather than luxury. Yet inside, the newly refurbished 150-passenger ship revealed a fresh Scandinavian style inspired by the surrounding landscapes. After settling into our cabin, we were introduced to the expedition team and fitted with specialist gear – bulky perhaps, but invaluable for keeping warm in Arctic temperatures.
The coming days delivered evocative experiences both at sea and ashore. In Stokmarknes, housed inside a striking glass museum, lies the preserved Finnmarken. From 1956 to 1993 the Hurtigruten ship plied the Norwegian coast, transporting passengers and freight. A costumed storyteller brought history vividly to life, recounting the story of Richard With, whose vision led to the creation of the coastal express route that connected remote Norwegian communities.
Exclusive to HX guests, the after-hours tour and dinner in the ship’s dining room was followed by a moving performance by a local choir. Afterwards we wandered at leisure around Finnmarken, which even had its own post office, before returning to our modern vessel. The juxtaposition of past and present perfectly underscored one of the journey’s elements, the ability to seamlessly blend heritage with contemporary exploration.
Nature, however, remained the star attraction. On the tiny island of Tranoya, accessible only to a handful of visitors by ship, we were greeted by hardy sheep descended from Viking-era stock. Snowshoeing across its silent, snow-covered terrain was both peaceful and invigorating. One of the daily activities and excursions offered by HX, the only sound was the steady crunch beneath our feet as we followed one of the expedition team members and made our way through forests dusted in white.
Each day brought different opportunities for exploration. Using small boats, we ventured ashore in secluded locations, with the option to join gentle shoreside walks or more energetic hikes. Some preferred to linger by crackling fires, sipping hot soup while admiring pastel skies and jagged peaks.
The next day a few of us, myself included, decided to try something more daring to gain a unique Arctic badge of honour. For those willing to embrace the cold, the polar plunge is undoubtedly an experience not easily forgotten. However, silver travellers may surprise themselves, as what begins as hesitation (certainly as far as I was concerned) quickly turns to exhilaration. After warming up in a sauna in Svolvaer, I found myself standing at the water’s edge, heart racing. A deep breath, a quick step forward, and suddenly I was immersed in icy water. The shock was immediate, but so too was the thrill. Moments later, wrapped in a towel, I felt energised. The feeling lingered long afterwards, and later a polar plunge certificate, signed by the captain, was placed outside my cabin.
Wildlife encounters added another dimension to the journey. A sea eagle safari, also in Svolvaer, offered incredible close-up views of these majestic birds, Norway’s largest bird of prey, as they soared and dived with effortless precision. On the return trip, we were fortunate enough to spot minke whales surfacing nearby, an unexpected bonus that drew gasps of delight.
Back on board, life settled into a comfortable rhythm. Meals in the ship’s restaurants showcased regional ingredients, while the expedition team delivered engaging talks that deepened our understanding of the landscapes we were exploring. There were also opportunities to participate in citizen science projects, such as taking water samples, which provided accessible and rewarding ways to contribute to ongoing research.
Sailing through the dramatic Trollfjord was another highlight. Despite its narrow entrance and towering cliffs, which make it inaccessible to larger vessels, the nimble MS Spitsbergen navigated the waters with ease, offering panoramic views that were nothing short of breathtaking.
The ship also provided front row seats to the magical spectacle of the Northern Lights, or Aurora Borealis. After keeping us waiting for several days, they finally appeared in spectacular fashion during dinner. If they appear in the night you can also set your cabin phone to be notified of sightings.
Whether it’s stepping into icy waters, exploring remote islands or simply pausing to watch the aurora dance overhead, this is a journey that leaves a lasting impression.
Find out more
Silver Travel Advisor partner HX Expeditions sails to worldwide destinations including Alaska, Antarctica, the British Isles and Europe, Galapagos Islands, Iceland, Norway, Northwest Passage and Arctic Canada, Norway and Svalbard, and South America. All-inclusive seven- to 13-night Norway expeditions are available on MS Spitsbergen, with fares including daily excursions and activities, meals, drinks, Wi-Fi and gratuities. Passengers also receive a windproof jacket to keep, plus a photographic journal of the voyage.
To book a cruise and get further information from our Silver Travel Advisors, call 0800 412 5678.
