Gillian Thornton and her husband celebrate a special occasion with a slow boat through southern France
From the top tier of the Roman theatre in Vienne, it is easy to imagine life here 2,000 years ago. Built into a steep hillside above a broad meander of the Rhône, the theatre once sat 13,000 citizens of the Empire and dominated the bustling city that straddled this strategic waterway.
Today, Vienne’s antique theatre is amongst several outstanding Roman attractions along the Rhône, which rises in the Alps and flows into the Mediterranean between the wetlands of the Camargue and the ancient port of Marseille.
As a travel writer specialising in France, I have visited many of the historic riverside towns by car, but had never enjoyed the tranquillity and scenery of a journey by water. So, with a significant wedding anniversary providing the perfect excuse, I booked a holiday in late October with my husband John, cruising from Burgundy to Provence on board Riviera Travel’s MS Thomas Hardy.
With shorter days and uncertain weather, we did take a gamble so late in the cruise season, but if like us you love the colours and serenity of autumn without the potentially high temperatures and tourist numbers of summer, it’s a gamble worth taking and for us it more than paid off.
We joined the Thomas Hardy in Lyon, a city we both know well, so instead of joining the guided excursion included in the itinerary, we opted for an independent morning on a nostalgic tour of old haunts. The beautiful Renaissance Old Town with its hidden passages; the hilltop basilica of Fourvière and twin Roman theatres; and the painted walls and grand boulevards of the peninsula between the Rhone and Saône.
After lunch, Thomas Hardy turned north up the Saône into Burgundy, and we had time to enjoy this luxury ship which takes 167 passengers. Choose from ‘boutique style’ cabins on three decks, each with chairs, hairdryer, and air-conditioning. For our anniversary celebration, we treated ourselves to a Deluxe Cabin on the upper Diamond Deck which offers the bonus of outside balcony, extra floor space and other premium extras.
Meals on board are sociable affairs, menus changing daily in the main restaurant which operates a free seating policy. It is possible to bag a table for two, but we mostly enjoyed convivial meals with new friends. Or you can head to the back of the ship for the fixed menu of the more intimate Brasserie.
Waking up next morning in Chalon-sur-Saône, we enjoyed a sunshine drive up the Route des Grands Crus through a ‘wine list’ of villages including Puligny-Montrachet, Volnay and Pommard, before arriving in Beaune. The Saturday market was in full swing and there was time to browse after our tour of the Hôtel-Dieu, founded in 1443 as a hospital for the poor and location for an annual charity wine action.
Cruising overnight again, we head back through Lyon to Vienne with a free morning to explore independently. Not just the spectacular theatre but also the Roman Temple of Augustus and Livia, one of only two intact temples surviving in France. An afternoon on the water was a welcome chance to watch the river from the sun deck – a more tranquil waterway than the busier Rhine and Danube – and, for me, a blissful deep tissue massage with the resident beauty therapist and hairdryer.
And so, our week unfolded in a relaxing mix of discovery and relaxation. Yes, we had visited some places before, but the Rhone Valley offers some outstanding sites that are well worth a second visit. We enjoyed following the route on the concertina-map provided for each guest, and even though overnight rain left moody skies and low mist for our excursion to the spectacular Ardeche Gorges, the weather can never spoil the dramatic underground rock formations of the Grotte de la Madeleine.
Overnight, we slipped seamlessly from the Rhone-Alpes region into Provence, arriving in Arles where Vincent Van Gogh spent one of the most productive periods of his life from February 1888 to May 1889. Close to our mooring, a reproduction of his famous Starry Night revealed the exact spot where the troubled artist stood.
Arles is another Roman gem. The theatre is smaller than those in Vienne and Lyon, but a vast amphitheatre rises up in the centre of town, still used for bull games and cultural events today. But the best was still to come in a week already packed with archaeological highlights – our afternoon excursion to the three-tier aqueduct of Pont du Gard. Here we had free time to take photos from every angle and tour the excellent visitor centre with museum, movie and café.
And finally, to Avignon, famous not just for that bridge – or what’s left of it – but for the towering Gothic Palais des Papes, home to nine popes between 1316 and the early 15th century. After visiting both sites with a local guide, we enjoyed wandering Avignon’s historic streets in glorious autumn sunshine, people watching from a café terrace, and stocking up on Provençal gifts to take home.
This is a cruise that can be as active or passive as you please. There is no pressure to join in any of the included excursions or the post-dinner programme which included a lively music quiz, a hilarious French ballroom dancing display, and a tasting of Rhone Valley wines. Local guides were charming and knowledgeable; city moorings were always well positioned; and coach transport to excursions, comfortable and efficient.
We really enjoyed linking some of our favourite French destinations by water, watching the scenery change dramatically between the gold-tinged vineyards of Burgundy and the grey-green olive groves of Provence. We met some lovely passengers – some celebrating 30 years of married life, others with more than 60 on the clock – and for us, the MS Thomas Hardy proved the perfect celebration of 45 happy years.
Next steps
Find out more about Riviera Travel here. To plan and book a Riviera cruise or tour, call Silver Travel Advisor on 0800 412 5678.
