Steve Newman discovers a diverse array of wildlife during a trip to Estonia and Latvia
The Baltic States of Estonia and Latvia are a bit under the radar when it comes to Silver Travellers searching for a short haul holiday. However, if you are keen to see wildlife on your travels and would like to mix this with fascinating local culture and history then you should consider them as an option.
These two countries have a lot going for them. Not only are they just a two-and-a-half-hour flight away but they still hold huge tracts of native forest, and their coastlines hold some of the most spectacular bird migration sights you are ever likely to see.
Tweet yourself to a pair of spectacles
If you are visiting to see the birdlife, then it is undoubtedly best to visit during the migration. Over sunny autumn days we travelled from Tallinn to Riga, following migration corridors, coastal life, forests and peatbogs across Estonia and Latvia. Every spring and autumn, thousands of songbirds, waterfowl, and raptors pass through the coastal regions. It it’s not just the range of species you can see but also the sheer number of birds in a flock.
At the tip of the Puise Peninsula we visited the free observation tower overlooking a variety of coastal habitats. We had missed the Common Cranes, but a flock of 200 brambling and 950 chaffinch is normal for this time of year!
Located on Estonia’s southwest coast, Kabli Bird Station is one of the best places in the Baltic region to witness bird migration up close. The station is known for its long-running ringing and monitoring programme, where you can learn about bird migration, scientific research, and conservation. The team working there show you what they have trapped and how they ring and track an individual bird’s progress.
Life’s a beach
Estonia has literally hundreds if not thousands of offshore islands and along with Latvia some stunning beaches. We took a boat trip out to some of the islands and saw grey seals, massive flocks of long tailed ducks, white tailed sea eagles and many other sea birds but unfortunately, we were too early to spot steller’s eider, a bird I have long wanted to see.
Do try and take e-bike tour along the Latvian beaches and deep into the forest where long tours teach you about the forest and even make non-alcoholic cocktails along the way at different stops!
The traditional cuisine in the Baltic States is delicious with an emphasis on local ingredients like fish, potatoes, dairy, and foraged foods such as mushrooms and berries. There are many small restaurants/ guesthouses a short walk from the shore where you can eat al fresco under the stars with only the sound of the waves lapping on the beach to keep you company. Try Baltic herring often pickled or smoked served with black rye bread and butter. The smoked fish dishes have a rich intense flavour making them well worth trying.
A tale of two cities
Although this was primarily a wildlife trip, I would advise you to explore these two cities so different and yet so alike. Tallin is still very medieval in its layout and buildings whilst the Art Nouveau architecture in Riga makes up roughly one third of all the buildings in the centre, making Latvia’s capital the city with the highest concentration of Art Nouveau architecture anywhere in the world.
To appreciate their architecture, it’s best to walk around them at dawn as the sun bathes them in the early morning light and the streets are deserted. Then later when the vibes of everyday life transform them into living and breathing entities.
A walk in the forest
Estonia and Latvia both have National Parks that hold vast tracts of original European forest still inhabited by brown bear, lynx and wolves. For a fleeting split second, I was lucky enough to see a lynx as it walked between the trees, something I will remember for a very long time.
The bird life too is amazing with some stunning woodpeckers and the larger owls such as eagle, ural and great grey owl. The parks also contain large areas of Peat Bogs that you can either walk through using large snowshoe like footwear or walk above on raised wooden pathways depending how close you would like to get to nature!
We visited Tolkuse Bog, a raised peat bog in southwestern Estonia, located within the Luitemaa Nature Reserve. It features a 2.2 km boardwalk trail and an observation tower, providing access to typical bog landscapes and opportunities to observe wetland vegetation and bird species. There are a couple of steep climbs and descents on the walkway, but it is an incredible experience none the less. You can also experience a small boat ride amongst the vast reedbed systems where bitterns, bearded reedlings and beavers make their home.
In a short article like this we can only scratch the surface to show you the wildlife spectacles of Estonia and Latvia. The people are extremely friendly and the combination of wildlife and culture is a real bonus, plus nearly everybody speaks English and is keen to learn! Both countries are still off most people’s radar and are not visited that much. I have a feeling that is going to change quite quickly so go while you can.
Next steps
To plan and book a trip to the Baltic States, call Silver Travel Advisor on 0800 412 5678.
