Amazing Andalucía: From Malaga to Moclin 

A friend had told me about Casa Higueras, a small B&B in a remote village in the hills outside Granada and as soon as I saw some pictures on the web, I knew I had to visit. Covid got in the way but eventually my husband Clive and I managed to get away for a week in early September. The weather was perfect, hot sunny days with just a hint of autumn in the early morning.


With so many reasonably priced flights from the UK to Malaga we decided to spend a few nights in the city at the Parador de Gibralfaro. The Parador is a gorgeous hotel perched on top of a steep hill overlooking the city and port. It is a typically Spanish property with a friendly feel and amazing views. The walk down into Malaga was enjoyable but the walk back up was not for me! Luckily taxis are easily hailed, and we soon worked out the bus timetable. 

Malaga is often overlooked by the many holidaymakers heading for the resorts along the Costa del Sol, and it is well worth spending time to discover this vibrant city. We enjoyed shopping in the elegant city centre, strolling along the waterfront for a lunch on the beach and exploring the stylish port area. 


After all that excitement we set off for the little mountain top village of Moclin, north of Granada. 

View of Moclin

After navigating some seemingly impossibly steep roads we arrived at Casa Higueras, our home from home for 4 nights. Our hosts, Ian and Andrew, welcomed us with tea and orange cake on their amazing terrace with its uninterrupted views into the valley and the Sierra Nevada mountains beyond. We never tired of that view, the mountains changing colour as the day progressed, all shades of grey at sunrise, shimmering silvery grey in the midday sun and glowing red as night fell. 

Ian and Andrew have renovated their Casa with great taste and imagination. Both are full of artistic flair and as I found out, probably the busiest people I have ever met.  As well as their B&B they run residential courses in the village for cookery, flamenco, painting and more. The courses attract participants from all over the world and gives them a truly memorable week in the sun. 

We were able to experience their Granada tapas tour which we won’t forget in a hurry! It was a hot Spanish evening, and the streets were teeming with locals celebrating the start of the weekend. Ian and Andrew took us to their favourite tapas bars, which we would never have found on our own, to sample local wines and enjoy tasty morsels of wonderful Spanish delicacies. 

The following day we had a lesson in preparing their own version of paella. We cooked it outside on their terrace while enjoying a glass or two of a perfectly chilled wine. Finally, we sat together and tucked in to the creamy ‘arroz’ complete with tasty chicken wings and huge juicy prawns.

Sally Cooking Paella

Moclin is at the start of a famous hiking route, the Ruta del Gollizno and we were keen to explore it. Due to the heat, we set off early. It was a challenging 10 kilometres through a steep sided gorge and along a very scary rope bridge, ending with an exhausting climb back up into the village.  Despite being a very popular route, on a Friday morning in September we didn’t see a soul and the silence, only broken by birdsong, was so soothing. The views were worth every breathless step, and it was one of the most enjoyable hikes I have ever done. We earned our siesta that day.

Hiking – El Gollizno

Summing Up

We both felt there is even more to discover in Moclin; the 13th century castle atop of the mountain, more hiking routes and the pretty villages nearby. Perfect reasons to return. As mentioned, we flew to Malaga which is a 90-minute drive to Moclin. Hopefully more flights will open up between the UK and Granada, which is just 35 minutes away. 

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Sally Dowling

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