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Things to do


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September, 2019

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Our hotel in “Përmeti”:, “The Funky Guest House”:, didn’t provide Funky Dinners and so we ate out on the two nights we were staying there.

Having wandered around the town in the afternoon, we had seen “Trifilia”: but thought it looked slightly more upmarket than the rest as it had white tablecloths and a good display of wine, so we were going to discount it.

However, having walked to the edge of town to our first choice, Familjar, we saw a large group of 13 sat on the terrace whose order had just been taken. We sat down, but the girl was too busy serving their drinks to notice us and bearing in mind we didn’t want to have to wait for 13 meals to be cooked before ours, we discretely left. We headed back into town and found Trifilia.

At first, it looked soulless as the restaurant was empty, but the waiter suggested we might prefer to sit in the garden. We were led through to a large outdoor seating area with long tables and benches. There was an area under an awning, and as (a) it was a chilly night, (b) it was better lit and (c) had proper chairs with cushions, we chose a table. It was quite busy, but everyone looked as though they were either eating or being served.

Having recently eaten rather a lot of salad, they are big in Albania, we chose mains of meatballs with pasta and borek, plus half a litre of white wine and sparkling water. The meatballs were two, flat shaped, but tasty and well-seasoned patties, served on the side of a generous portion of linguine cooked in lots of butter with grated parmesan on top. The borek was two square shaped pies with spinach and cheese. We shared both and they went well together.

We finished on a coffee but had to have espresso, as there was no macchiato, and a rather fierce raki. The final bill came to 1500 Lek/just over £11. The service was good and all in all, it was a good night and we were pleased Familjar had ignored us.

Helen Jackson

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