Our final night in Tajikistan was spent in Khojand, formerly Leninabad, at the Sugdiyon Hotel. We hoped it had evolved from its former incarnation, the Leninabad Hotel, which Lonely Planet described as ‘this patched up Soviet tower operates only two floors and décor has evolved little since 1990’.
The signs were good, as on arrival we found a rather impressive, rectangular-shaped building with an elegant decorative façade, with fountains and gardens in front. Our room (511) was on the 5th of 11 storeys, and our guide escorted us to ensure there were no problems, telling us that after checking in large groups, he waits in reception for 15 minutes, and if he hears the lift ding, he knows someone is unhappy with their room.
Each floor had a long corridor of identical rooms down both sides. The end room, where during Soviet times the dezhurnaya, or floor lady, would dispense tea from a samovar, had been converted into an ironing room.
In contrast to the ornate exterior, our relatively small room was plain and basic with two very single, single beds and mine felt as though the springs were from the Soviet era. The bedding was reasonable, although there was only one pillow each, but there were bedside tables, lights and plug points. It was simply furnished with a desk, wardrobe with two robes, and an empty fridge. The air-conditioning and WiFi both worked well. Our small balcony overlooked the river, but there was no seating, although there were two dining chairs we could take out.
Although the bathroom was a little cramped, it had an excellent walk-in shower and there was a good mirror and hair dryer combination.
The huge grand restaurant had chandeliers, and ornate decorations on the walls and ceilings. The large round tables seating eight, with tall floral decorations, were positioned around a dance floor and it felt more suited to a wedding reception than breakfast. There was the usual yoghurt, fruits (mini apricots, plums, and melon), cold meats and cheeses, tomato and cucumber, boiled eggs and several hot, unappetising looking dishes of porridge, pink sausages and fried eggs. There was a huge range of bread and cakes, but unfortunately, it was laid out in a small area, and even with only a few guests, it was cramped. The best part was an excellent whizz-bang coffee machine, especially as we had time to indulge in a second cup.
The hotel was located behind the corniche running alongside the Syr-Dara, a river flowing through four of Central Asia’s five stans. Opposite was Kamoli Khujandi Park, with a semi-circle of columns and busts of Khojand’s historical leaders and a cable car across the river to Somoni Park. There was also a very reasonably priced restaurant a short walk ,away.
