A thin veil of steam drifted across the platform at Fort William as I boarded the Jacobite train. I’d arrived in the Highlands a few days earlier on the Caledonian Sleeper, but this was the experience I’d been looking forward to, a journey through some of Scotland’s most dramatic scenery aboard one of the world’s most famous steam trains.
Running between Fort William and the west coast fishing town of Mallaig, the Jacobite, operated by West Coast Railways, is best known today as the Hogwarts Express. I’ve seen the Harry Potter films of course but travelling on the real train revealed that this isn’t just a cinematic novelty, it’s one of the greatest railway journeys in the world.
The locomotive eased out of the station smoke billowing past the windows as Ben Nevis loomed in the distance. Inside the carriage the atmosphere was pleasantly old-fashioned; polished wood, deep-coloured upholstery and windows that just about opened allowing the scent of coal smoke and Highland air to drift inside.
Before long, the town slipped away and the landscape opened out into lochs, forests and sweeping moorland. After a short stop at Arisaig, Britain’s most westerly mainland railway station and a visit to the small museum and more photos, we climbed onboard again ready for the most famous part of the journey! Passengers, a mix of international visitors and UK travellers, leaned towards the windows, cameras at the ready as the train curved towards the Glenfinnan Viaduct.
An exciting moment as the Jacobite rolled across the graceful 21 concrete arches while Loch Shiel shimmered far below. It’s a view that has become very popular but seeing it on the actual steam train adds a sense of theatre that no roadside viewpoint can match.
Beyond Glenfinnan, the scenery grows increasingly wild. The train skirts the shores of Loch Eilt and passes Loch Morar, Britain’s deepest freshwater loch, its dark waters framed by rugged hills.
Arrival in Mallaig brings a gentle return to everyday life. The harbour was busy with fishing boats and ferries. I had time to wander along the waterfront, pop into a few Harry Potter souvenir shops and enjoy a quick lunch before the return journey.
The return trip felt different. With the main photo stops behind us, it was good to settle back, watching the Highlands slide past. The rhythm of the steam engine became almost hypnotic.
As we rolled back into Fort William, steam from the locomotive rising once more into the Highland air, I was struck by what a great experience this is. The Jacobite isn’t just a train journey, it’s a moving window into Scotland’s landscapes, history and enduring romance, making it an ideal addition to a Scottish itinerary.
Info: The Jacobite operates seasonally from Spring to Autumn and do bear in mind tickets sell out quickly especially in the summer. Book online and a first-class upgrade is available which offers wider seat carriages and tea or coffee served at your table both ways.
More information at www.westcoastrailways.co.uk
