We stayed in Uzbekistan’s Silk Road city Khiva for two nights and as our hotel, the Shaherezada, didn’t serve evening meals we ate out both nights at restaurants recommended by our guide.
On our first night we found Ayvon, literally just around the corner from our hotel. As it was located over several floors with a roof top terrace which we assumed would be popular, we called in earlier in the day to book a table for 8pm. On returning, the place was already busy with our allocated table being in the middle of the terrace and next to a large group. We asked if it could be relocated to the edge in a quieter spot, which was no problem. The menu in Uzbek and Russian only, fortunately had photos of each dish which guided our initial choices of a peanut butter type hummus with cherry tomatoes, sun-dried tomatoes and toast triangles, and what appeared to be crumbed and fried slices of aubergine which had been rolled and stuffed with meat. Both were very tasty, but we fancied one more dish and chose a salad, a lovely mix of at least 10 of Hugh Fearnley’s 30 plant points along with thin slices of what I hoped was beef rather than horse. With a couple of large beers, sparkling water, and two coffees, our bill came to 391,000 Som which seemed a lot until we converted it to just over £24. The service was mixed, and ranged from having to request napkins twice, to then being constantly asked if there was anything else we needed. On leaving, we discovered the restaurant had only been open three months and it obviously had a few teething issues, but it was full, which bodes well.
On our second night, the restaurant was simply called Tapas, and once again, we booked the terrace before having pre-dinner drinks nearby. Having paid cash for the drinks, we realised we were unlikely to have sufficient local currency for the meal, so set off with fingers crossed that credit cards were accepted (not always a given in Uzbekistan). Having established they did, we celebrated with a bottle of reasonable local white wine (180,000 Som or £11) and water. We began with a shared plate of egg ravioli, which were quite bland but were quickly enhanced with a red spice in the pepper pot. We followed with a beef shaslik on a huge, long skewer and a coleslaw-like cabbage salad. As money, or the credit card was no object, I finished with a chocolate ice cream. Having booked, our table was in pole position to watch the sun go down over the West Gate which probably miffed a British couple from Exodus who were seated on the table behind us when we arrived. Our total bill came to 434,520 Som or £27.03
For pre-dinner drinks, choices were more limited, but near the West Gate, or Ata Darvaza, we discovered Tea House Bir Gumbaz which had an outdoor terrace ideal for people watching. They were more than happy to serve large beers, priced at 30,000 Som or a very reasonable £1.85.
On arrival, the hotel recommended Zarafshon, for a light lunch, and we sat on the terrace and had a shared folded thin bread filled with cheese which came accompanied by a delicious tomato dip. Unfortunately, in the evenings, it was all formally laid out for dinner and looked expensive.
Having finished our morning sightseeing, the guide dropped us at what he described as a tearoom: a large covered restaurant with bright colourful table cloths and wall hangings, which we had to ourselves. Beers, water and a shared plate of five beef dumplings, similar to the Georgian Khinkali we’d had the previous year, were served with a sour cream yoghurt. Despite our best attempts to discover its name, we failed as the staff spoke no English and it appeared not to have any exterior signage.