On arrival in Mostar our guide, Lorenc, recommended three restaurants and on our first night, decided to book a table for the one nearest our hotel. Just as we were approaching the courtyard area where Babilon is located, a young girl handed us a flyer for it and escorted us into the restaurant where we booked the ‘best table in the house’ on the terrace overlooking the River Neretva.
On arrival, the girl at the courtyard entrance, escorted us through using her umbrella as it was pouring down. Unfortunately, the ‘best table in the house’ was next to a group of five loud men who were smoking (most restaurants in Bosnia and Herzegovina don’t have no smoking areas). However, as we were on a covered terrace it was bearable. We had great views of the Stari Most bridge in one direction and a mosque in the other, which as the night grew dark, was lit up beautifully. The restaurant has an uncovered terrace further down but due to the rain was out of bounds.
There was a simple menu with grills and fish, and we chose a mixed Bosnian platter – it didn’t say what it was, but turned out to be peppers, tomatoes and vine leaves stuffed with a tasty mince and rice. We also ordered a plate of fries and a mixed salad which was simply lettuce, tomato and cucumber. We also had a litre of passable house white and large bottle of sparkling water. We finished with coffee and a hurmasica (a date-shaped pastry soaked in a very sweet syrup sauce). We’d checked on booking whether they took credit cards but found they took all currencies.
The restaurant was in the cheap and cheerful section of the guidebook and our bill came to 63 Marks. We were able to pay in Euros, which was converted to €33, and we handed over €40. The waiter asked if we minded an English £5 in our change which was returned to us along with €2. Personally, I had no idea whether this was a good deal or not, but it helped maintain entente cordiale. By the time we left, the rain had stopped.