When devising our itinerary of Bulgaria, our travel agency suggested a few nights in the UNESCO listed Ancient City of Nessebar. However, we felt it might be a little limiting, and instead chose the Aphrodite Beach Resort just outside. From here, we enjoyed both the beach, and walking into the old town. Located on a peninsular jutting out into the Black Sea it was a pleasant 20-minute walk (or a 2 Lev/90p bus ride which we never used).
Our first day was cloudy and ideal for exploring. Broad paths on either side of the road took us past an iconic 19th century windmill on one side and on the other side, the more modern tall statue of St Nicolas, the patron saint of fisherman, standing in a boat holding a cross in one hand and a pigeon in the other.
The tiny peninsular was home to as many as 40 churches built between the 5th and 17th centuries, and Tourist Information provided a map and marked those with an entrance fee (there were lots of combined ticketing options with discounts for visiting several). We decided that during our week we would tick off the 19 numbered sites on our map, but not necessarily go into them. Some were well preserved whilst others were simply ruins.
The style of houses was unique, with stone at the bottom and larger upper floors of dark wood, and many had been converted into restaurants, hotels or souvenir shops.
There were several museums including the Archaeological Museum, but we chose the Ethnographic Museum (8 Lev). A steep flight of stairs took us up to the landing, where several rooms displayed a relatively sparse selection of traditional costumes from various parts of the country.
Having ticked off all the numbered sights, we were then just content to wander the maze of streets at random and as we strolled into the town most days, we must have walked every single cobbled street.
At the entrance to the old town you can take a mini train (6 Lev) or boat (15 Lev) to Sunny Beach, a huge package holiday destination (think Ibiza but cheaper).
Eating and Drinking
If you want to eat and drink in the old town, you’ll be spoilt for choice. A bar, just at the entrance with seats in a shady square, was ideal for a beer either on arriving or before leaving, and watching the people come and go.
On another day, we chose to stop for drinks at the outdoor tables of the Old Sailor, just opposite the Church of St Sophia and the ruins of the 5th century basilica. We then discovered it was recommended by our tour agent and had good reviews on Trip Advisor. We stopped again, intending to eat, and over half a litre of white wine, looked at the menu and decided it was expensive and uninspiring.
Instead we headed for the southern coast and at Sevina, were shown to a table on a panoramic terrace. We both faced the setting sun and so it was quite warm, but once it had set it became chilly. We opted for a tuna salad with a variety of salad leaves, cucumber and sweetcorn, followed by squid in white wine and garlic and in the absence of fish and chips, prawns in garlic and oil. They were simple, but good and with a litre of white wine and a large bottle of water our bill came to 80 Lev or £35.04. For most of the evening, we had the terrace to ourselves, and it was only as we were finishing, that two other tables were filled.
Whilst there is no doubt that the town is very pretty, with vehicular access being restricted, we were pleased with our choice to stay on the beach and visit when we wanted.