The Grand Nodirbek Boutique Hotel had a brilliant location within the city walls of Uzbekistan’s Silk Road city Bukhara. However, this meant vehicular access was restricted, so we had a 10-minute walk from the drop-off point. Fortunately, our driver coordinated with the hotel, and not only were we met, but we were assisted with our luggage, which was helpful as there were several short flights of steps.
On arrival, passports were taken, and we were shown to our ground-floor room (25) but given no introduction to the hotel.
Our room, one of around 30, faced onto a quiet central courtyard, so window shutters had to remain closed. It was relatively spacious, but fairly basic with the main decorative feature being a rug on the wall behind a glass screen with a rope light running around it. Two single beds had been pushed together and although we had a double bottom sheet, there were individual top sheets with optional blankets in the cupboard – although as outside temperatures were 35+ degrees, the air-conditioning was more useful. The blue and white patterned headboards in a traditional Ikat design blended very well with my new M&S top.
The wall-mounted bedside lights lacked bulbs and there appeared to be no switches: we discovered the following day that they were behind the bed headboard and would have been visible if the beds had been separated as singles. We therefore asked for bulbs, and for the three blown bulbs in the central light fitting to be replaced. Whilst this was quickly sorted, it shouldn’t have happened.
There was a simple wardrobe, wall mounted TV, and complimentary Wi-Fi. There was no chair for the desk, the small fridge was unplugged and bottled water was not automatically provided, although it was given on request. The kettle was next to two mugs, but there were no tea bags and on checking, we were told it was just to boil water.
The small bathroom had a shower, but the head spurted water all over including over the top of the cubicle, which flooded the bathroom. However, the water was hot and powerful and although there was little space for toiletries, the hairdryer could be plugged in near the mirror.
There was no evening restaurant or bar, but on our first night a helpful member of staff, who was keen to practice his English, provided two chilled beers for 50,000 Som (just over £3), and we had an interesting discussion on his use of the word ‘ecstatic’. On the following night, a different member of staff charged us 10,000 more for two warm beers.
On the first morning, we were the only guests and breakfast was laid out in the central courtyard which was full of plants and flowers. It was an absolute feast and for the two of us our table contained: six hard boiled eggs, a large plate of cold meats and another of sliced cheeses, four pancakes, two types of savoury pastries, bread, seven triangles of a rather delicious apple crumble style cake, a yoghurt drink, juice, plates of apricots, plums and small apples and a pot of green tea. The following day, when there was a group of German guests all the same components were laid out on a large buffet table.
The hotel was originally six former Jewish houses and its exterior design, with lots of wooden pillars and blue tiles, was fabulous: it’s just a shame that our experience was slightly marred by maintenance issues. See also the review ‘Bukhara Jewish Old House’.
