On the route between Romania’s largest port, Constanța and the Danube Delta we had several stops.
Jurilovka
The first was in the pretty fishing village of Jurilovka on the shores of Lake Razim. It was founded by the Lipovans, or Old Believers, who fled Russia around 1772 to avoid religious persecution. I read that they have an abhorrence of the ‘Devil’s Weed’ (tobacco), but that their consumption of vodka is legendary. Their unique Lipovene-style houses were whitewashed with ‘Jurilovca blue’ façades, reed roofs, and wooden detailing resulting in a pretty and harmonious looking village.
It has one of Romania’s largest fishing communities and is home to one of Europe’s most modern fish processing facilities. It was only natural to find lots of fabulous looking fish restaurants at the water’s edge, but unfortunately it was too early for lunch. A locked fridge near one restaurant had ‘caviar crap’ for sale for 15 Lei, a bargain at less than £2.50.
As we were visiting mid-week, and before the season started, it was quiet but with so many pleasure boats moored up, it was easy to see how busy it would be on a warm sunny day, in the height of summer.
Enisala Fortress
Our next stop, Enisala Fortress, was slightly inland, and as it was perched high on a hill at 136m in a remote area, it was visible for miles around. It was built by the Genoese merchants in the late 13th century, and it was obvious why its strategic location overlooking Lake Razim and the Danube Delta beyond had been chosen.
We paid 5 Lei each (90p), a discounted rate for pensioners and, bearing in mind we were the only visitors during the hour we spent there, we wondered whether the entrance fees would cover the wages of the person selling the tickets.
It was a long walk up a paved road and then 30 steps into the castle. Unfortunately, there was little to see inside, and the small museum was closed. However, the views were stupendous, but it was one of those places best viewed from the outside.
Razim Lake
Continuing north around the lake shore, we arrived at the village of Sarichioi where we stopped at Taverna Le GaFish overlooking the lake. It was picturesque with lots of wooden jetties but again it was very quiet, but at least our stops made the journey more interesting.
