On arrival at Family Hotel Dinchova Kushta in the small Bulgarian village of Rozhen, we dinged the bell twice before resorting to exploring. We found a lady in the kitchen who returned to reception with us, but it quickly became clear, she spoke no English. All our conversations about passports and meal times were conducted through Google Translate – and whilst I used the dictation facility, she unfortunately laboriously typed away.
Having realised we were going to be led up a steep, curved staircase, I mimed ‘help with bags’ and was given the option of three ground-floor rooms which appeared very similar. Unfortunately having chosen and unpacked, we found the toilet constantly ran loudly. However, it was a reasonable size with a double bed covered by an empty duvet cover which only just fitted the top with no hang down, resulting in overnight tussles for control. Although there was only one pillow each, at least there were cushions. There were two non-matching bedside lights, tables and sockets, but as one hung from the wall, we decided against using it. It was simply furnished with a wardrobe, two stools, coffee table and a TV, but no fripperies like water, tea and coffee, or safe. With shuttered windows and only a single light bulb, the room was rather dark.
The bathroom was designed like a wet room and after we’d both showered the entire floor was covered in water, resulting in wet feet when using the loo or basin. However, despite the impractical design, the shower was fabulous in terms of water temperature and pressure. The light over the mirror didn’t work and there was no hairdryer.
The large walled courtyard was full of plants and bric-a-brac, and having been out exploring we returned to find a young man, who also spoke no English, but used Google Translate to order two beers which we enjoyed in the late afternoon sun.
Dinner with wine was included in our package, and bearing in mind our experience to date, our hopes were not high. However, the restaurant was very atmospheric with open doors and windows, lots of memorabilia, a flagstone floor and kittens which kept appearing before being constantly shooed out. We were shown to a long table with a bench, which was in pole position to see everything, and although a couple and a solo diner appeared to be choosing off an a la carte menu, our food and drink simply flowed as follows:
A tomato, aubergine and red onion salad with a liberal sprinkling of Bulgarian cheese – served with a glass of white wine. At the same time we were presented with a shared plate of sliced cheese which seemed unnecessary.
A shared slab of baked feta generously topped with honey and chopped nuts – served with a glass of rose. This was delicious and gave us ideas for repeating at home.
Pork Kavarma – a traditional hearty pork stew with lots of onions served in clay pots with a fried egg on top, and individual home-made naan-like breads – served with a glass of red.
The kitchen doors then appeared to close, and we thought that was the end of our meal, until terracotta pots of ice-cream were brought out. Having seen their size we shared and ordered a final glass of white wine. The ice cream was delicious and although we couldn’t identify the flavour, we were getting fed up with using Google Translate for every question, so simply sat and enjoyed it.
Having asked for breakfast at 8am, we were dreading a huge cooked affair after such a splendid, filling dinner. On arrival, the young boy offered coffee, and we could hear it been made, but when it arrived it was stone cold, as was the replacement. He explained it was because the milk was from the fridge: as the coffee wasn’t very large, we suspect it was an espresso with lots of milk. We suggested he microwaved it which solved the problem. Eventually after 15 minutes, a plate of two lightly toasted pieces of bread arrived with butter, sliced meats and the two types of cheese we’d been served but not eaten at dinner. However, it was all a little dry and we asked for a second coffee.
On checking out, we expected to find just the extra glasses of wine, only to find we’d also been charged for four coffees and four milks. We left it to our tour operator to sort out.
