Silver Travel Advisor’s Kerry Gallagher laces up her hiking boots and takes to the trails in Madeira, one of Europe’s most scenic hiking destinations
I’ve been lucky enough to watch the sun rise in some pretty incredible places: The Taj Mahal in India, Angkor Wat in Cambodia, Uluru in Australia. But perhaps one of the most memorable was at Ponta do Rosto located on the eastern tip of Madeira. With sweeping views across the Atlantic Ocean and coastal cliffs dominating the landscape, this scenic viewpoint delivered one of the most vibrant and colourful skies I have ever seen.
Despite a 5am start to catch this spectacular sunrise, we then set off to hike Vereda da Ponta de Sao Lourenco, also known as ‘The Dragon’s Tail’. This rugged coastal path follows the narrow stretch of the island which takes you to the furthest point on the east coast that it is possible to hike to. Any effort it took to hike 10km with sleepy heads under the heat of the morning sun was richly rewarded with stunning views of the turquoise ocean crashing against colourful rock formations. Every turn revealed a different perspective and a reason to stop and take photos to capture the memories.
This was just one of the hikes I took during a week-long hiking holiday with a group of friends in Madeira. As avid hikers in the UK, usually found in the Lake District most weekends, we’d heard time and time again that Madeira was one of the most incredible islands in Europe for hiking, with a varied mix of terrains from levada trails to hidden waterfalls, steep mountains and, as we saw from Sao Lourenco, glorious coastal pathways.
And everything we had heard turned out to be true – with so much more I could add. It was day after day of discovering new landscapes and exploring some of Madeira’s most popular routes, and seeking out some of the lesser-known trails. Planning couldn’t be easier thanks to the naming system of the island’s trails – all of which start with PR meaning ‘Pequena Rota’, which translates to ‘small route’, followed by a number.
PR1 is perhaps the most famous hike, and a must on any hiking holiday. It takes you from Pico de Areeiro to Pico Ruivo – the highest peak on the island at 1,862m. It’s also where you’ll find the iconic ‘Stairway to Heaven’. It’s a challenging route with steep inclines and rough terrain, but the views are worth every step. Unfortunately following the wildfires in August 2024, the majority of the trail is now closed, but visitors can still sample a section between Pico de Areeiro to Pedra Rija Belvedere.
Before arriving in Madeira, I was a little confused by all the talk of levada trails – what is a levada? Do we have them in the UK? The answer is no, there are no levadas in the UK, but there are over 3,000kms of them in Madeira. In short, they are irrigation channels transporting water from the springs at the top of the mountains down to the valleys below. They provide a natural footpath through some of the most breathtaking scenery, and at times they are the only means of access to certain places and areas of natural beauty.
Amongst the many levada trails we walked, the most popular was PR6 – the Levada das 25 Fontes – a moderate trek passing Risco waterfall, through thick forest and onto the star of the show – a weeping wall of 25 streams falling into the clear pool below. However, my favourite levada trail was PR6.3 – Lagoa do Vento – a short trail of just 7km which passes a levada waterslide, and leads to the base of the waterfall in a quiet, secluded spot, ideal to stop for lunch or just to relax and soak up the surroundings. From here you are actually at the top of a tier of waterfalls and below you’ll find Risco and 25 Fontes from the PR6 route. You can even walk to the top of Risco where the water cascades over the edge – but take extreme care as there are no guardrails or barriers.
Aside from excellent hikes and scenic trails, there’s plenty to see and do in Madeira. The capital, Funchal, is a vibrant city on the coast, boasting cobbled streets lined with shops, restaurants and bars… and the unique attraction of basket-weaved tobogganing! And the smaller town of Calheta, with its laid-back waterfront restaurants, where a perfect Sunday evening was spent enjoying cocktails as the sun set. As highly as I recommend Madeira, I’ll leave you with a word of warning – if you’re tempted to try the traditional Madeiran tipple Poncha, then do so at your peril and remember – small sips, not down in one!
