Natasha Blair explores Central Macedonia in Northern Greece where Thessaloniki, Greece’s second largest city, has all the ingredients for a long weekend – culture, history, nature, great food and wine. Bordering on the Aegean coast, and close to the city are miles and miles of golden, sandy beaches with as a backdrop, a range of mountains.
Students from three universities contribute to making Thessaloniki a vibrant, buzzing city with lots of outdoor life. Although most of the city was destroyed by the Great Fire of 1917 remains of its Byzantine and Roman past remain. The Agra also known as the Forum, the Roman meeting place was the city’s centre from the late second century to early Byzantine times. The large archaeological site which includes a restored amphitheatre can be viewed from the street with the addition of an accompanying underground museum.
Near the Agra, the Rotunda, an UNESCO World Heritage Site, was built in the early part of the fourth century, and is said to be a temple of Zeus, and part of the palace complex dedicated to the patron gods. In Christian times, the Rotunda was used as a church, and colourful frescoes on the ceiling and mosaic art is still visible.
On the waterfront, the fifteenth century White Tower is one of the city’s landmarks and now a museum dedicated to the city’s history. Arranged over six floors climbing the 96 -stairs to the top, visitors have a panoramic view of the city and nearby port. Further along the promenade which is a hub of activity particularly at the weekend with music, food and stalls, is a spectacular sculpture installation “the Umbrellas.”
Pleasure boats, one themed as a Pirate Boat, another with loud music called the Party Boat, have half hour trips of the harbour, where visitors have a view of the city’s coastline and the port from the sea while enjoying their chosen tipple.
Within easy reach of the city are numerous archaeological sites including what is known as the Olympus Riviera, 80 kilometres of sandy coastline. Mount Olympus, dedicated to the mythical gods, and the country’s highest mountain, is a national park. A dip at the top is said to be the seat of Zeus. The mountain is a haven for hikers and bikers.
On its lower slopes, Paleos Panteleimon is a pretty village with lots of tourist shops.
In the foothills of Mount Olympus, Dion the ancient city of Zeus, is a vast 370-acre archaeological park. The site encapsulates the Kingdom of Macedonia, going back to the sixth century before Christ. Excavation is on-going with discoveries from different periods that include temples, Roman baths, tombs, theatres, stadiums and statues.
A monumental find, the Royal Graves of Aigai was only discovered in the 1970s. Sadly, two of the four tombs were pillaged but within the museum, the Royal Macedonian tombs of King Philip 11 who lived 336 BC. and those of a prince are preserved along with precious artefacts that were buried with them. The museum is dimly lit to preserve the treasures which include gold caskets, jewellery and crowns.
For those who love nature, the area has an abundance of beautiful places. Skra is a woodland area filled with flora and fauna. A path downhill twists and turns but it’s worth the descent to come across cascades of waterfalls and at the bottom, an entitizing bright blue lake where it’s possible to swim. However, even in the height of summer when temperatures reach the 40s, it is apparently freezing cold!
Thessaloniki has been designated an UNESCO City of Gastronomy due to its food which has influences from Europe, Africa and the Middle East. During my visit, I stuck to the more traditional Greek restaurants where the ingredients are sourced locally, and varies according to the season and what is available. A local delicacy, either eaten at breakfast or a mid-morning snack is bougatsa, envelopes of crispy, wafer-thin layers of baked filo pastry filled with either feta, the local crumbly white cheese made from sheep or goat’s milk; custard; and meat.
The countryside is filled with kiwi, peach, apple and almond trees with the fields a kaleidoscope of colour in spring. Olive oil is widely used with wine often from a local vineyard. My visit to the family-run vineyards and restaurant in Ganochora, where they offer food and wine tastings, was a memorable experience. The restaurant has an outdoor terrace which is the best spot to eat, weather permitting, as
it runs the length of the building and has views of the vines and valley below, with a backdrop of mountains.
Central Macedonia with its clement climate has something for everyone. Thessaloniki, the town, is filled with shops. Although I had no time to enjoy the beautiful, sandy beaches, there were rows of restaurants, some on the sand, which I look forward to experiencing on a return visit with so much still to see!
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