Jane Wilson travels through this tear-shaped island
She looked up, the smile glinting from her eyes, the folds of her head-covering framing her face but her skin told a different story. Lined and weather-beaten, it relayed the toil of working in the paddy fields under the glare of the sun, hot and unforgiving, her wicker basket on her back laden with the results of her labour. I smiled back.
I was walking along the award-winning Pekoe Trail, a non-profit initiative which has breathed new life into the rural communities, connecting them via this popular hiking trail, opening new pathways less travelled. It’s a 22-day hike, and I was hiking the last section, the highest at 2,000m above sea level between Kandapola to Pedro Tea Estate in Nuwara Eliya here in central Sri Lanka and adjacent to the highest mountain, Pidurathalagala. Here slopes undulated around me, like neat folds of green corduroy, blanketing the surfaces, tiny villages with families going about their daily routines, tuk tuks zipping past and fields sprouting wild strawberries and beetroot. At times I became a silhouette engulfed in the mist when it became mysterious and esoteric.
Sri Lanka is a country of contrasts. Spend time here and you really get a taste of the country and its wildlife. I travelled to Hurulu Eco Park in Habarana, hoping to seeing elephants in their natural habitat. And I did. After a while, the jeep stopped, a spray of sand above the bushes sent a signal that we were close. Branches parted and a heavy thud could be heard, repetitively but slow and heavy. The leathery, wrinkled grey skin of an elephant’s trunk came into view, uncurling like a party blower. Majestically, a mother and baby in unison strolled before my eyes, taking control of the imaginary pedestrian crossing, bringing over-zealous tourists, balancing on jeep roofs, to a stop, silent and in awe. But elephants are not always in the bushes, they attend religious, royal and celebrity ceremonies as guests of honour, adorned and adored, they feature prominently in traditional arts and crafts. They are inseparable from Sri Lankan culture. Even as I travelled they sauntered past, nonchantly, nonchalantly, treading the pavements on a busy roadside.
I visited Yala National Park in the southeast of the island, hoping to spot a leopard, sadly not on this occasion but instead I spotted crocodiles wallowing in shallow waters, deers and many of the 215 species of birds.
Immersive adventures
I travelled extensively and was rewarded with distinctive cultural experiences. Cloaked in orange, a monk led a meditation session, cocooned inside a cave, the atmosphere revered and spiritual, the silence deafening, the hike adventurous. This spiritual destination of Rideegama offers meditation, spiritual tours and eco trails.
Upping the tempo, I watched a Sri Lankan dance class, dressed in finery, silver jewels jingling and head dresses swaying, faces gleeful -a traditional art fighting to exist.
And I survived the 1,200 step climb to the top of Sigiriya, an ancient rock fortress and a UNESCO heritage site. Watch your step, it’s a little slippery and, in places, an absence of handrails.
Regions to explore
Kandy sits by the lake overlooked by the famous Temple of the Tooth which is the most treasured Buddhist site in the country. It houses the famous relic of the Buddha’s tooth which was transported to Sri Lanka from India in the fourth century. This city was once the capital when it was known as Ceylon, I travelled to the higher altitudes where the temperature drops to cater for the patchwork of tea estates, interluded with quaint towns with old-world charm such as Nuwara Eliya in a region referred to as Little England.
On the southwest coast, Galle Fort, a fortified old city founded by Portuguese colonists in the 16th century, buzzes with art and history, a magnet for tourists while on the east coast, once the area of unrest, tourism has been reborn with empty beaches and native beauty where villagers maintain skills and practices handed down from generations. Within this area the Sun Siyam Pasikudah resort has introduced rustic boutique-style Sri Lankan hospitality offering 34 spacious one-and two-bedroom garden and beach pavilions. The property blends seamlessly into the environment and locality. Inside and out, individual features and furnishings have a story to tell, created from discarded timber and ingeniously made into rustic signature creations – tables of all types carved by the staff, lampshades created from unused wood shavings, ropes twisted to hang wooden swings at the bar and even a floating lounge which sits in the ocean and a mini manually-operated catamaran for access from the beach for special occasions and star-gazing. The hotel seems to enfold its guests into the heartbeat of the 5.5-acre space under the shade of coconut palm trees. dotted with hammocks, loungers and bean bags, where soft background music doesn’t interfere with the sound of the waves. The hotel has a number of places to dine and a stunning wine cellar with 900 bottles to enjoy fine dining or at a table sunken in the sand, beachside. It’s a place to learn skills from tips and tastes of Sri Lankan cuisine with the chef’s cookery classes and coconut leaf thatching & weaving from the gardeners. Excursions include visiting the local fishing area of Kalkuda by tuk tuk, and the fishing harbour. Stroll through the vegetable market and maybe meet Azeez the oldest resident trader of 45 years and owner of his grocery store, full of dried foods before visiting the Hindu temple and passing women on bicycles balancing stick branches. More hands-on is a visit to a local pottery shed to watch and learn the art of pottery.
Following roads less travelled I uncovered immersive experiences and authentic traditions such as bumpy rides on bull carts through rural countryside led by a driver with a one-tooth grin, a canoe trip over the river learning to make a hat from leaves en route to the lonely village to feast on a community cooked lunch, monkeys scampering up telegraph wires and cricket matches in play. Such are the precious experiences of travel and especially the image of the rice picker with the smiling eyes and framed face that will always be remembered, especially over a cup of Ceylon tea.
Next steps
To plan and book your holiday to Sri Lanka speak to our advisors on 0800 412 5678. Our team can help build your bespoke itinerary including flights, accommodation and things to do.
