Mardi Gras was in full glory when Jane Wilson visited this vibrant city.
They were flying overhead, aiming directly for my side of Canal Street. Decorating the sky, strings of coloured beads glinted in the sunlight before their capture into the grateful arms of spectators – families, tourists, residents, friends, adding yet another layer of adornment to their flamboyant outfits. The culprits were vividly dressed riders disguised in masks on extravagantly ornate floats pulled by tractors. This carnival revelry, excitement and social mingling is the hallmark of the Mardi Gras. It’s part of New Orleans’s DNA. Each float has a story, paying homage to the past while embracing the innovations of the present. Uptown, downtown and out of town, the Mardi Gras keeps the value of traditions alive, celebrating freedom of character while reflecting the unique culture of New Orleans.
This centuries-old tradition dates back to the Middle Ages when the first parade is recorded to have taken place in 1857. It was initially celebrated by European Christians as a way to mark the beginning of Lent and to prepare for the fasting period of Easter. It begins on the 12th Night and extends until midnight before Ash Wednesday. Mardi Gras is French for ‘Fat Tuesday’. It involves 70 parades, often lasting up to 5 hours, and organised by social clubs known as krewes. Several ‘super krewes’ have larger parades and events (often featuring celebrity guests), such as the Krewe of Bacchus, Krewe of Orpheus and the Zulu Social Aid & Pleasure Club. In the early hours of Mardi Gras morning, the Mardi Gras Indians march in costumes of the North Side Skull & Bones Gang to wake the neighbourhood and bless the streets. It’s an authentic, sombre experience, a dark atmosphere. The Backstreet Cultural Museum, located here, explains the rites and practices interwoven with the French-Creole history.
The French Quarter was the original city, now designated as a National Historic Landmark. The streets in the French Quarter are too narrow for the floats, yet the party continues, all day and, for some, all night. Everyone can experience a piece of the action. The architecture lends itself to partying with decorated balconies ideal for throwing beads to hopeful passersby while jazz musicians play on the pavements, in bars and clubs. Cornet Restaurant has the biggest and brightest second floor balcony on Bourbon Street. The iconic wrought iron decorative balconies, derived from the Spanish, have shaped the architectural aesthetic of this French Quarter. And to preserve their splendour, there’s a tradition of ‘Greasing the Poles’ which involves treating the structures to deter overzealous revellers from shimmying up to the coveted balcony space.
For those more fortunate, the views and perspective of this annual spectacle could not get better than as a rider on a float. A huge amount of organisation and time is involved in this. Firstly, the costumes, vivid and lustrous with matching masks are made for each of the 4,000 individual float participants. The line-up of floats bedecked in elaborate designs, colour palettes and statuettes with tractors attached is like a beauty pageant, a contest of wagons. Riders are harnessed into place but not before climbing over boxes piled high with gift throws: hats, doubloons (coins), small toys, socks, frisbies, and beads, of course. Once on the official parade, mask wearing is obligatory and strictly not to be removed until the return to the start point, where yet another party is in full swing.
Mardi Gras World
Positioned next to the Mississippi River is the vast visitor attraction, Mardi Gras World, a warehouse where the magic of the Mardi Gras is in the making – a year-round industry. Here artists, sculptors and even the robot Pixi are busy crafting over 500 floats, bringing characters to life in a range of materials from paper-mache, clay and fibre glass. It’s like a sculpture wonderland of figures, from a styrofoam Shrek to King Kong and where Superman can be remodelled into Batman. It’s also a den of floats which feature multi-sections that can stretch up to 200 feet long, with hydraulic moving parts, LED lighting, and pyrotechnic effects. It originated in 1932 as Kern Studios when the first mule-drawn float was built on the back of a garbage wagon.
The buzz, spirit and energy of the Mardi Gras does not disappear after the police have cleared the streets on Ash Wednesday. The party atmosphere in the French Quarter continues with jazz, restaurants and bars, while the city is packed with culture from museums to art galleries, tours of all kinds from, plantation, swamp and city tours to steamboat and airboat cruises or hop on an authentic streetcar to explore the neighbourhoods.
All that jazz
Throughout the French Quarter, a distinctive sound seems to bubble up from the streets – trumpets blaring, a crash of the cymbal and blows of a horn, laced with vocals form the rich bass band culture. Visit the New Orleans jazz museum, dedicated to preserving and celebrating the history of jazz music. Jazz was born in New Orleans although its roots lay in the musical traditions of Europe and Africa. It’s easy to imagine the jazz funerals and slow shuffle march which was portrayed in James Bond, Live & Let Die. Legend Louis Armstrong, known for his songs What a Wonderful World, and When the Saints Go Marching In, was born here, an airport named after him and a park dedicated to his fame.
The voodoo queen
Voodoo remains in practice in New Orleans which still holds a mysterious fascination to this day. It was regarded as a religion connected to nature, spirits, and ancestors especially when followers fleeing Haiti after the 1791 slave revolt moved to New Orleans. The famous voodoo queen was Marie Laveau (1794-1881), a legendary practitioner buried in St. Louis Cemetery No.1. Today voodoo practices include readings, spiritual baths, prayer, and personal ceremonies. The New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum is the place to research the mysteries, legends, and traditions of voodoo, and the influence it has had throughout the city’s history. There are several voodoo shops where you can buy gris-gris dolls and potions or get a personal reading. Unique to New Orleans are bone readings given by Priestess Catherina in her cosy home shop, Intuitions, which she has practised for over 50 years. This practice uses symbolism and spiritual interpretation from the placement and configuration of blessed bones and has proven popular with a number of celebrities.
Flavours of New Orleans
When it comes to food, New Orleans has a wide menu offering jambalaya, gumbo, crawfish etouffée and po-boy, a hearty sandwich. Try the alligator bites, breaded or grilled. No trip to New Orleans is complete without a bag of beignets, fried doughnuts covered in powdered sugar made famous at Café du Monde and a staple since 1862, while the pralines are a must-try. During Mardi Gras, it would be a sin not to taste a slice of King Cake, a blend of coffee cake and cinnamon roll iced in the colours of Mardi Gras, purple which represents justice, green faith and gold power.
On Bourbon Street chalked boards advertise ‘Happy hour 9am – 4pm’ with extensive drinks menus. The Sazerac cocktail (cognac or whiskey based) is the official drink of New Orleans while The Frenchmen 75 was made famous here. Visit the Carousel Bar which opened in 1949 and is still spinning!
The Mardi Gras is certainly a bucket list experience. Of the many accolades Louis Armstrong received, being elected King of Zulu during Mardi Gras was the one that he often said meant the most. But if you can’t make it for this festival, there are over 130 unique events during the year to include Jazz Fest, ESSENCE and French Quarter Festival New Orleans is the party city at any time; pouring with cocktails, spilling with spices, foods from a melting pot of flavours, steeped in history and colourful in spirit.
Next steps
To plan your visit to New Orleans and experience Madi Gras for yourself, call Silver Travel Advisor on 0800 412 5678.
