Gillian Thornton combines happy memories with new discoveries on an escorted break
Sitting down at a cafe on Siena’s famous shell-shaped square, I’m delighted to find the view exactly as I remember it. The Piazza del Campo with its soaring bell tower and imposing Palazzo Pubblico has always held a special place in my heart.
Many years ago, I made a decision at this very spot that was to change my life. Fresh out of language college, I had embarked on an evening class in creative writing and as I sat here over lunch soaking up that iconic view, I resolved to give writing my best shot. Now here I am, several decades later, raising a glass with my husband to a fulfilling career as a travel writer.
John and I are on a week-long tour with Riviera Holidays that is delivering on every front. ‘Walk & Discover Florence and Tuscany’ is a two-centre escorted holiday that combines a blend of guided urban and country walks with free time to explore some of Italy’s best heritage cities at your own pace.
La bella and beyond
We spend our first three nights in Florence, often called ‘La bella’ or ‘the beautiful’. By day we stroll from the Uffizi gallery, the Ponte Vecchio, and the Pitti Palace – the Renaissance home of the powerful Medici family. By night we seek out cosy restaurants specialising in authentic Tuscan cuisine. Meat lover? Try delicious Chianina beef from the white Tuscan breed, apparently one of the world’s largest and most aggressive cows. Share a giant T-bone Bistecca Fiorentina, or maybe a succulent roast or some slow-cooked beef cheeks.
A full-day excursion from Florence enables us to tick lovely Lucca off our bucket list. After a short, guided walk along part of the city walls, we have free time to browse the Sunday craft market on the site of the Roman amphitheatre, climb to the top of Torre Guinigi for panoramic city views, and still fit in a refreshing Caprese salad lunch in a quiet square.
From Lucca we head to Pisa where Riviera guests have tickets to visit the cathedral, baptistery and tranquil Campo Santo burial ground in the city’s celebrated Piazza dei Miracoli. If you want to climb ‘That Tower’ (you know which one I mean), you need to buy a timed slot online and join a queue, so we decide to admire it from ground level instead. Pick your photo shot carefully as from some angles, the Leaning Tower can actually look straight! And don’t be surprised at tourists contorting themselves into all manner of suggestive selfie positions.
Countryside and cuisine
After the bustle of Pisa’s Miracle Square, we enjoy the next day’s scenic drive through rolling hills and lines of iconic cypress trees as we leave Florence for the Chianti wine region. At Greve, we follow local guides on a vineyard walk where the harvest is in full flow, before a short drive to a wine domaine. Here we enjoy an excellent lunch of local charcuterie and cheeses, accompanied by generous glasses of quality wines.
From our accommodation in the Tuscan countryside, we look across farmland to the bijou hilltop town of Monteriggioni with its 13th century city walls and 15 towers, a popular option for a walk on our final free day.
But first, two more Tuscan gems, both listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. We start with a full day in Siena, just ten kilometres from base camp. After visiting independently all those years ago, I am delighted to get under the skin of the city on a morning tour with a guide who paints a vivid picture of the passions behind the annual Palio horse race.
This annual Medieval extravaganza takes over the town on July 2 and August 16, and the only real rule, it seems, is that whilst no harm must come to a horse, the professional jockeys are fair game as they speed round the concave shell-shaped Piazza del Campo at breakneck speed. And all for the honour of winning for the contrada – or district – that hires them.
John and I have lunch at my treasured spot, and I make a new friend of our waiter who loves the story of my career moment. Then we set off to explore independently, starting with the extraordinary wall paintings inside the Palazzo Publicco that dominates the Piazza and moving on to the Cathedral for more extraordinary artworks, which include a fabulous marble floor.
Next day, we enjoy another Medieval gem, San Gimignano, which became rich from travellers on the Via Francigena pilgrim’s route. We start with a country walk to admire the unique skyline at a distance before passing through the city gate amongst the 14 status-symbol towers that remain from 74 originals.
We drink a toast to Tuscany with a lunchtime glass of delicious white Vernaccia, only produced in a small area around the town and rarely sold elsewhere, and we savour an ice-cream at Gelateria Dondoli, winner of The World’s Most Famous Gelato in 2024.
We have thoroughly enjoyed our week with its well thought out balance of town and country, guided activities and free time. The two-centre approach minimises transit time between heritage destinations whilst offering a rewarding contrast. Expect guided city walks of up to two hours, and two options on each of the country walk days, both explained by our excellent tour manager Paul the evening before. None of the routes should present problems to anyone of reasonable fitness.
Tuscany was already special to me but now John and I have many more precious memories together and plan to try Riviera’s genius Walk & Discover formula in a new location in the future.
Next steps
To find out more about Riviera Travel, visit silvertravel.com/riviera and to plan and book one of their marvellous tours, call Silver Travel Advisor on 0800 412 5678.
