Jeannine Williamson discovers spectacular foliage and spooky tales on a unique and lesser-known river cruise
I push open the narrow trap door and climb the steps onto the walkway surrounding the glass-enclosed lantern and catch my breath. Water laps the base of the lighthouse and closer to the shoreline the yellow, orange, red and gold autumn foliage is reflected in the mirror-like surface. It’s a beautiful sight.
What makes the scenario even more remarkable is, firstly, I’m not at sea and, secondly, I’m on the Hudson River. Well-known for intersecting New York, most people don’t think of the stateside waterway beyond its connections with the Big Apple. Indeed, while the river is named after Henry Hudson, an Englishman sailing for the Dutch East India Company who explored it in 1609, I never realised you could cruise along the Hudson. That said, American Cruise Lines is the only company to do so. However, I’m quietly relieved when some of the American passengers – a friendly bunch of mostly silver travellers – confide that they had thought the same!
The trip to Rondout Lighthouse, one of only seven remaining on the Hudson, is among the wide choice of daily trips on our seven-night voyage of discovery. Arriving at the lighthouse on a nifty solar-powered small boat, we tour the old living quarters – rectangular not round – at the foot of the structure built in 1915. Replacing a previous stone lighthouse constructed in 1867 and the first wooden one from 1837, it’s fascinating to learn three loyal members of the Murdock family – husband, wife and son – were variously keepers at every lighthouse from 1856 to 1923.
Delve into maritime history
Although uninhabited, the lighthouse remains an important navigation aid at the entrance to Kingston, New York’s first state capital. The city was burned to the ground by the British in 1777 during the American Revolution but – I was thankful to hear our guide continue – reemerged as a major port in the 19th century following the discovery of natural cement in the region.
Back on dry land, we stroll around the charming waterfront and visit the Hudson River Maritime Museum, evoking memories of steamboats – unique in having two paddlewheels in the centre rather than one at the back – and other craft which once plied the river. Next door we watch a talented craftsman demonstrate how Kingston also became renowned for its wooden boatbuilding industry.
The history-rich itinerary, played out against the colourful spectrum of autumnal leaves, takes in six stops along the 150-mile navigable stretch of the 315-mile-long Hudson.
Pumpkins galore
The date of our themed cruise also coincided with the run-up to Halloween, adding an extra dimension to the trip. Particularly in Sleepy Hollow, immortalised in Washington Irvine’s spooky 1820 novel, The Legend of Sleepy Hollow, and the 1999 film starring Christopher Walken as the headless horseman. I felt a few tingles down my spine as our guide recited extracts as we walked through the graveyard where Irving is buried, before admiring the elaborate Halloween decorated town. (Pics 4, 5 and 6)
Elsewhere, there were pumpkins galore at Dubois Family Farms, which also hosts one of several apple-themed tours available on the itinerary running through America’s second largest apple growing region after Washington State. Other days took us to West Point, considered the most important strategic location in the country by George Washington and site of the prestigious United States Military Academy, which started life as a fort. (Pics 7, 8 and 9)
All aboard a ‘coastal cat’
Our comfortable floating home is the 100-passenger American Liberty, one of the newest ships in American Cruise Lines’ growing fleet. The modern ‘coastal cat’ catamaran has a low draft which enables it to access small ports along the way.
When we first boarded and were introduced to the ever-smiling crew, our lovely cruise director Maria joked: “We get a bonus based on how much weight you put on”. If my consumption of the generous meals – naturally, including pumpkin pie – free-flowing wine and twice-daily rounds of freshly baked cookies was anything to go by, they probably did very well that week.
In between shore tours, Maria hosted fun activities and games including a scavenger hunt, writing competition (which I’m delighted to say I won!) and working out your cruise name based on the first letter of your name and birthday month – in my case, Karma Cloud Nine. There was also an insightful resident guest speaker and excellent visiting entertainers. In short – never a dull moment.
Rooms with a view
On the penultimate day American Liberty arrived in New York in spectacular fashion, with close-up views of the Statue of Liberty. Lingering far longer than standard sightseeing boats, our captain gently swung our nimble ship around and circled in front of the landmark sight, giving everyone ample opportunity to take photos of the ‘Green Lady’.
We docked in Manhattan, within easy walking distance of Times Square and swanky shopping street Madison Avenue. One of the many things I enjoyed about the cruise was not feeling overly organised and being able to dip in and out of excursions and explore under our own steam. So, while some shipmates opted for a coach tour or visit to the poignant 9/11 Memorial & Museum, we took ourselves off to one of New York’s newest attractions.
While many big cities have observation decks, SUMMIT One Vanderbilt, which opened in 2021, is decidedly different. Housed in Midtown Manhattan’s tallest skyscraper, it’s spread across floors 91 to 93, and the excitement begins as you enter the lift and ascend 1,000ft before stepping out into a dazzling room with a mirrored floor (helpful hint: take sunglasses and it’s best not to wear a skirt!).
After taking bird’s eye pictures of the Empire State Building – the world’s tallest building until 1971 – we entered fun multi-sensory rooms including one filled with tactile helium balloons. On the outdoor deck I took a last look at the panoramic cityscape, with the Hudson River sparkling in the afternoon sunlight far below. It was a fitting way to end a wonderful week discovering a waterway everyone has heard of, but far fewer have ever sailed. (Pics 16 and 17)
Find out more
American Cruise Lines is the largest river cruise line in the USA, exploring the Mississippi River and waterways around the country. The company’s fleet of small ships and riverboats sail in 35 states on all-inclusive cruises which include selected shore excursions, drinks and gratuities. In addition to the seven-night Hudson Fall River Cruise, from Albany to New York or in reverse, there are also summer sailings on the Hudson River.
To book your cruise on American Cruise Lines and get further information from our Silver Travel Advisors, call 0800 412 5678. We can book American Cruise Lines in the UK via our travel partner Fred Holidays.
