The harness was clasped around my hips, my triple-socked boots deep in powdery snow while Leah twitched her ears and tugged me forward into the forest. This was my first experience being led by a Siberian husky. She was nine years old, renowned for her princess attributes, a coat of a brown and white blend, one eye blue, the other brown, which set her apart from the herd. We followed the circular path from the Husky House, past pristine snow-draped pine trees, the air fresh and freezing but silent and still, other than the sound of paws and feet through a landscape of pure tranquillity. I was in Swedish Lapland, tucked into the folds of northern Sweden in Västerbotten. This is an Arctic expanse in which to melt into the rhythm of nature and to experience its outdoor adventures in contrast to the cities of Umeå and Skellefteå by the coast.
Outdoors is the indoors in this part of the world with plenty of creative ways to enjoy its untamed landscape. I joined a forest guided walk, the darkness lit from the beam of my head torch, the undergrowth silhouetted in shaped snow, the crackle of branches breaking the hush and the shadows following me as the guide provided a crash course on pantry ingredients tucked under bushes. Next, I braced myself as I climbed down the steps into the icy river at Umeå Kallbad. I was encouraged to breathe deeply as the cold temperature seeped through until was numb. I lasted just over a minute and defrosted in the nearby sauna. Invigorated, I went for a second round. Here they run “Experience The Ice” sessions for all ages. This was a trio of sensations – a fire-pit around which we sipped hot chocolate and tucked into gingerbread and then the ice bath followed by the sauna. Ice plunging is a popular health trend that teaches the body to warm up and handle discomfort as well as other benefits such as aiding circulation and strengthening the immune system. Saunas are sometimes built directly on the lake for direct access. The Ume River flows through the city of Lycksele and is a source of recreation during all seasons. In winter try kick-sledding, whizzing over the iced-over river and witnessing the cracks as you scoot over them. With weather patterns ever-changing, your activity choice is dictated by nature, be it cross country skiing, ice skating or hiking.
Huskies are not the only wildlife we have come to know from this northern country. Hiding amongst the trees, the jagged shapes of antlers danced in tune with the clatter of hooves and our Christmas animal stars appeared before me, Oscar (not Randolph) was the first with his asymmetrical curly antlers, eager to be fed by hand with moss provided by the herder, Börje Stenlund from Vildmarkscamp in Malå. As the Sámi people are the caretakers of the reindeers, he shared the fascinating herding traditions of Lapland as well has the Sámi culture and way of life.
The Forest and Sámi Museum at Gammplatsen (known as the old place) in Lycksele was once the gathering place of the early settlers and traders of the Sami people in northern Sweden. The museum displays a wide variety of artefacts and provides an insight into the culture, history and life of the Sámi people and the local forested area. Today, the Sámi indigenous people are actively reclaiming their identity. We listened to their future plans from Mikkel Jacobsson from the Lycksele Sámi Association while we ate in a Samic Hut, (Gåhtie) enjoying a hot vegetable and white wine soup followed by fish cooked in foil, warmed by the central open central fire inside – scrumptious.
The food in Swedish Lapland centres on local ingredients and cooking traditions – think berries, reindeer, and of course fish such as pickled eel. In Umeå, Facit Bar is famed for its Swedish only ingredients. You won’t find champagne here! Often meals are cooked outside to take advantage of the scenic landscape backdrop and fresh crisp air. Bundled up in every layer of clothing possible, I cooked my lunch over a fire, an iron frying pan in hand to make a Kolbulle, a Swedish bacon pancake with lingon berries… yummy. But you won’t go hungry living like a local. Fika time is respected here. Fika is a social Swedish coffee break, a ritual which dates back to the 18th century. It’s a time to pause, connect and recharge for company and conversation. Try the kanelbulle, a cinnamon bun and you will want two.
There is a great choice of unique accommodation styles; from a gothic themed boutique hotel in the centre of Umea, a bird’s nest tree house hidden amongst the branches, perfect for sightings of the northern lights to a simple hut with an indoor fire stove looking out over the frozen lake and a room in one of the world’s largest wooden hotels. Such variety illustrates the uniqueness of this corner of Sweden, its warm hospitality oozing from the soul-healing elements of the land.
The Lucia Celebration is one of Sweden’s most cherished traditions, held on December 13th to bring light into the darkest time of the year. It is marked by a procession of singers with angelic voices led by Lucia dressed in white robes carrying flickering candles. I sat in the Landskyrkan Church, the atmosphere filled with warmth and sentiment. This memorable spectacle represented the light of Sweden, which had shone throughout my trip, a radiance that travelled with me from my walk with Leah, the husky, my lunch date with Oscar the reindeer, the hopeful future of the Sami people and the illuminated kindness of the Swedish people, their lifestyle balance all snuggled into the scenic landscape folds of Swedish Lapland.
Where to stay:
Stora Hotellet, a restored 19th-century seafarers’ hotel with a bold design in a boutique style reflected its nautical heritage with intimate cabin-style rooms and library. Located in the heart of the city and close to the river front.
Granö Beckasin is a heart warming example of sustainable tourism built and saved by the community to preserve traditions and tourism. Its uniqueness are its birds nest accommodation peeping out from the trunks and branches of the trees.
The Wilderness Village and the sauna cabins at First Camp Ansia Resort sit by the river bank offering the best opportunity to see the northern lights The restaurant Skogskåtan is one not to miss.
The Wood Hotel by Elite opened in 2021 and stands as a landmark of one of the world’s tallest wooden buildings. It exemplifies Skellefteå’s tradition of wood construction combined with cutting-edge engineering. The Vana Spa is located on the 20th floor offering elevated wellness experiences.
For more information contact Visit Sweden.com
Find out more
To book your trip to Lapland or get further information from our Silver Travel Advisors, call 08400 412 5678.
