As France’s Loire Valley celebrates 25 years of UNESCO World Heritage Site status, Gillian Thornton recommends some of her favourite things to do.
Visitors come from all over the world to enjoy the natural and architectural heritage of the Loire Valley with its magnificent chateaux and perfectly manicured plots. And there has never been a better time to visit as the area celebrates 25 years since UNESCO awarded its prestigious label to the 174 km-section between Sully-sur-Loire, east of Orléans, and Chalonnes-sur-Loire, to the west of Angers.
But the Loire Valley offers a wide variety of heritage sites and activities whether you are into history or horticultural, gastronomy or the great outdoors. I first visited as a teenager and now, as a silver traveller, still clearly remember the experience of my first son et lumière at the magical chateau of Chenonceau. It was the start of a lifelong love affair with France, but with this glorious region in particular.
Live the Renaissance lifestyle
There have been castles dotted along this strategic waterway since medieval times – The Royal Fortress at Chinon, for instance, was the last refuge of Henry II, Plantagenet King of England who died here in 1189. But it was during the 15th and 16th centuries that property one-upmanship really took hold. Influenced by the Renaissance movement in Italy, the royal court began to spend increasing amounts of time away from Paris in the tranquil countryside around France’s longest river.
Follow in their footsteps at the royal palaces in Blois and Amboise; at the Château de Chambord, built for François I to host hunting parties; and at Chenonceau, gifted by Henri II to his mistress Diane de Poitiers, but reclaimed on his death by his widow Catherine de’ Medici. And don’t miss Clos Lucé, where the elderly Leonardo da Vinci spent the last years of his life as a guest of young François I, close to the royal castle at Amboise.
And where the monarch went, so too did his ambitious courtiers and ministers, commissioning fabulous properties of their own. Amongst my favourites is the Château d’Azay-le-Rideau, a turreted white castle that seems to float on the waters of the moat. Visit on a summer evening for a truly magical experience under floodlights as this impossibly pretty property celebrates its 500th anniversary this year.
I also have a soft spot for Château de Candé with its Renaissance exterior and ‘modern’ 1920s interior, which hosted the wedding of Wallis Simpson and Edward, Prince of Wales on 3 June 1937.
Fabulous florals
The French nobility loved their gardens too whether in French formal style or informal English-style parkland. Often a bit of both. Whether you are green fingered yourself or just love to admire someone else’s horticultural efforts, you will find plenty of inspiration here.
At Château de Chenonceau, don’t miss the vast kitchen garden where blooms are grown for the floral displays that grace every room in the chateau, and of course stroll amongst the formal planting of the two Renaissance plots.
I also love Château de Cheverny for its combination of flower garden, spacious park, and tranquil lake. House look familiar? Belgian cartoonist Hergé used the façade as inspiration for Marlinspike Hall, Captain Haddock’s country house in the adventures of boy detective Tintin.
Art and nature meet at the Domaine du Chaumont, which stands above the Loire between Amboise and Blois. Now an arts and nature centre, this imposing chateau and park stage a winter arts festival followed by a summer garden festival. Visit between 19 April and 2 November to admire a succession of imaginative show gardens, this year with a fantasy theme.
Time for a change
With so many castles and gardens to explore, it is tempting to pack in as many properties as possible, but be selective. I would aim for one major property per day, or two smaller ones, but the Loire Valley also offers a wide range of other activities. I have ridden through the Vouvray vineyards on horseback; watched wildlife from water level on a guided kayak excursion; and drifted over the river in a hot air balloon close to Angers.
I have also followed sections of the towpath trail on a hired bike. The first segment of the Loire à Vélo long distance cycle trail opened 20 years ago. Now this iconic route covers 620 km between Cuffy and the Atlantic Ocean with a further 280 km of loops and variants. Predominantly flat, the trail follows quiet roads and dedicated cycle paths with wonderful views and heritage sites along the way.
Cycle tourists will find hotels, campsites and B&Bs, as well as bike hire companies and luggage transfer options, all accredited with the Aceuil Vélo label – Bikes Welcome. Or just hire some wheels for a few hours and rediscover the joys of pedal power.
Feast on fresh local produce
Affectionately known as the ‘Garden of France’, the Centre-Val de Loire region boasts 110 products that are emblematic of the local soil and climate, or terroir, from sweets and pastries to fruit and vegetables, freshwater fish to world-renowned wines.
It is 15 years since UNESCO officially classified the ‘Gastronomic meal of the French’ on their intangible cultural heritage list and there are many ways to enjoy local cuisine in the Loire Valley. Maybe start with Rillettes de Tours, a delicious paté of shredded pork; follow with a delicate fish dish based on the sandre or pikeperch fresh from the river; and finish with a seasonal fruit dessert and a cheeseboard. Ask at any Tourist Information Office about Maîtres Restaurateurs, more than 170 talented chefs who work with seasonal local products.
Get a deeper understanding of regional cuisine on a tour of the Sancerre vineyards by electric scooter, with gourmet tastings en route; on a guided work for foodies through Tours, capital of regional cuisine; or with a cookery class led by a master vinegar maker in Orléans. Self-caterers won’t want to miss the sights, sounds and smells of a bustling food market. Or simply sit down at a restaurant table and let somebody else do the shopping, cooking and washing up. Bon appétit!
Next step
Plan and book your trip to the Loire Valley with Silver Travel Advisor – call 0800 412 5678.
