Marion Ainge takes a canal cruise in Portugal’s ‘little Venice’, finds two of Brittany’s beauty spots and visits Bilbao’s famous landmark museum
Tasting the famous Portuguese pasteis de nata is a must in Lisbon. The making of these delicious custard tarts, created by Jeronimos Monastery monks in Santa Maria de Belem, Lisbon, dates back to pre-18th century.
At busy times, such as peak season, queues form all day outside the famous Pasteis de Belem bakery and cafe to buy the famous, delectable, creamy custard-style pastries. Apparently, the six people who know their recipe are sworn to secrecy. Who cares? I’d rather eat them in Lisbon than try to make them at home! Inside the cafe, the crunchy pastries are served crisp and warm with coffee. And it’s considered impolite to eat less than two! Oh, go on then!
The ports
Lisbon was one of the ports visited on our Ambassador Hidden Gems of France, Spain and Portugal cruise. Our sailing from Liverpool headed first to Belfast to pick up additional passengers. From there, at the port of La Coruna, many passengers opted to visit Galicia’s Santiago de Compostela, the culmination of the Camino de Compostela pilgrimage route and alleged burial site of Biblical apostle St James. The pretty, lively little town with its Medieval cobbled streets, fountains, gardens and monasteries is worth a visit but it’s the impressive, historic cathedral which is the main attraction. Pilgrims must visit the high altar and the tomb of St James.
Our coach ride from Lexioes, Portugal, takes us to Alveiro. It’s raining but it’s only a shower and the pastel hues of the stunning Art Nouveau buildings come alive when the sun appears. The area is known as ‘Little Venice’. Our traditional Moliceiro is Portugal flag-coloured red and green. It’s a gondola-shaped boat which navigates the city’s small canals and bridges while we pass the ever-changing scene of diners at red parasol-fronted cafes and restaurants, plus fishermen’s cottages, shopping arcades, art centres and museums.
Just 30 minutes from Bilbao is the delightful small fishing village of Castro Urdiales, which has tuna, sardine and anchovy factories, plus two sandy beaches and a Gothic-style castle which dates back to the Middle Ages. But next we’re in Bilbao itself, where the magnificent Guggenheim museum, an outstanding example of 20th century pioneering architecture, is formed by almost 33,000 gleaming titanic tiles which reflect natural light and make up the iconic facade. Standing behind the museum is the ‘spider’ known as Maman, a monumental steel structure with a height of almost nine metres. ‘Puppy’, the 43ft living flower-covered Highland Terrier, guards the front of the museum.
The port of Le Verdon in the Gironde area of southwestern France is around 100km north of Bordeaux. We take a 50-minute ferry ride to the seaside town of Royan, which has a marina, five beaches and one of the best indoor and outdoor gastronomic markets in France. It’s a very hot day and it’s quite a walk to the Wednesday Marche Centrale on Boulevard Briand, but the aroma of the food stalls keeps us going. The oyster and wine stall is popular. Throngs of people crowd into the huge site where anything and everything is for sale. Inside there are displays of types of fish I’ve never seen before, cheeses, charcuterie, cooked and fresh meats, fruit, bottled jams, chutneys and fruit plus much more.
I speak my best French in a cafe and then a shop in Brittany’s Concarneau. I’m pleased to be understood. It’s an important fishing port which boasts a charming14th century walled town built on an island in the harbour. Quaint cobbled streets are crammed with small shops and cafes just waiting to be exploreD. Enchanting little Pont Aven is named for its a rippling stream and old stone footbridges in the lush Aven estuary. Gaugin’s school of painters adored the luminosity and charm of this bijou little town.
Life on board Ambition
What a nice surprise to find a walk-in wardrobe in my cabin on board Ambition. My 13 pairs of shoes (and everything else, with an additional 10 hangers kindly supplied by my steward) have a place on my Ambassador cruise to France, Spain and Portugal.
After a seamless check-in, within 15 minutes I’m on Deck 10 and in a spacious Junior Suite, which has a sofa, comfortable bed, ample storage space, deep balcony, bathroom, tv, fridge, tea/coffee-making facilities, bowl of fruit (replenished daily) and pre-dinner canapés. My home for 12 nights. What a treat!
Both Ambassador’s Ambition and flagship Ambience look like proper ships rather than blocks of multi-storey, high rise apartments. They provide a traditional cruising experience and the small ship category means that it’s simple to get around and you don’t need a map. And for solo travellers particularly, it’s easy to make friends. With 1256 passengers on board (1257 to include guide dog, Poppy), Ambition is sailing at almost full capacity. The average passenger age is 60-70 but there are quite a lot of younger cruisers and many in their 80s and 90s. We’re all well looked after by the ever-smiling crew and each of them does their utmost to provide everything they can to keep everyone comfortable and happy.
There’s an excellent choice of food in both the elegant Holyrood and Buckingham restaurants with plenty of variety in the more casual buffet-style Borough Market. The Chef’s Table dining (supplement £89) is a sublime experience. The culinary excellence, visual delight and nine courses of exquisite tastings and wine pairings is exceptional. Our main course of lobster and filet mignon is outstanding. The Saffron speciality restaurant offers the fragrant flavours of Indian cuisine, and the semi al fresco Lupino’s presents a pleasing mezze of Mediterranean dishes.
No need to be bored onboard with a series of lectures, craft/fitness classes, choir, card room, library, gym and shopping gallery. There are two pools, and The Green Sea Spa provides the ultimate in relaxation therapy. My Wish Pro anti-ageing facial left my skin glowing with a dewy finish.
In the bars you’ll find live cabaret, game shows, cocktails and karaoke. The Palladium tiered theatre’s top-drawer entertainment includes variety, comedy, storytelling and excerpts from West End shows. I loved the tribute to Les Misérables, and The Lion King segment had me on my feet, cheering.
(Oh, and just to mention, I wore 10 of the 13 pairs of shoes I took on board this wonderful cruise!)
Next steps
To plan and book your Ambassador cruise, call Silver Travel Advisor on 0800 412 5678.
