Silver Travel writer Anna Selby journeys into some of the most fascinating landscapes of South America
Ecuador is surely the most blessed country in Latin America. Not only does it have the beautiful snow-capped volcanoes of the Andes, it also has the eco-wonders of the rainforest and the unique islands of Galapagos. If you head to Ecuador, you can prepare to tick off at least two of your bucket list items!
The Galapagos Islands are, of course, famous because of the part they played in changing the path of scientific thought forever after Charles Darwin visited in 1835. Darwin himself wasn’t particularly appreciative of the often bleak landscapes here, but there could be no doubt about the impression made by the wildlife. It was, he said, “very remarkable: it seems to be a little world within itself; the greater number of its inhabitants, both vegetable and animal, being found nowhere else”.
Close enough to touch
It is the wildlife that continues to draw us to the islands today, not just the extraordinary diversity but the proximity of all the birds, reptiles and mammals who regard you with total indifference. Unafraid of humans, nothing runs or flies away from you and it is thanks to the wise policies of Ecuador that this continues to be the case. There are only 69 vessels licensed to bring visitors here (this number has remained the same for many years) and the biggest of these hold just 100 passengers. As a result, visitor numbers are low and the area they are allowed to visit comprises just 3% of the National Park – the rest is reserved for the animals. But, if you think this sounds limiting, think again.
My own visit to the eastern Galapagos spanned just five days but every day was a new adventure (usually several adventures, in fact). I strolled along a ‘nursery’ beach full of gambolling sea lion pups who just wanted to play whether in or out of the water; nesting boobies with their bright blue feet stood with their day-old chick a couple of feet away from me, utterly unperturbed; marine iguanas basked on the rocks of Espanola Island; giant tortoises lurked in lush forest; and frigate birds and albatross swooped above my head riding the air currents with the utmost grace.
Animal magic
On board La Pinta (max 48 passengers), they not only provided guides with great knowledge (you learn a lot on this kind of trip), but also fun – you could go swimming, snorkel or kayak, ride on a glass-bottomed boat or take a panga (rubber boat) hugging a remote island’s coastline through stone archways and into caves where more seals appear, curious to meet you.
It is always the animals that entrance on a trip like this. This remained just as true when, a few days later, I visit Mashpi Lodge deep in the rainforest. When I say deep – it’s a three-hour drive from the capital, Quito, over an hour of this on unmade road. But when you get there there’s no doubting it’s been worth every minute. The lodge is in the cloud forest rather than the rainforest – the Amazon Basin (rainforest proper) is at sea level but here you are in the foothills of the mountains at a slightly cooler 3,000ft. It is, though, always warm and humid, often raining, so you need to come prepared with wetproofs and insect repellent – though the lodge has zillions of welly boots so you can borrow those when you get here.
Prepare to be amazed
And, what can you see? There are butterflies the size of dinner plates, orchids draping themselves across trees, frogs the size of your thumbnail with voices loud as foghorns, birds from toucans to treecreepers all ablaze with colour and, for spider lovers, tarantulas of every size! Deep in the forest, there are pumas though you’re more likely to spot one on the lodge’s night cameras that track the movements of these handsome big cats. Most extraordinary of all, though, were the humming birds. At one stage, five of these delicate and beautiful creatures came to drink sugar water from a tiny pot held on my palm while they balanced delicately on my fingers.
Ecuador has a magic all of its own and it’s a place where you see life in all its mind-boggling abundance. And, yes, it really does deserve to be at the top of your bucket list.
Next steps
Call Silver Travel Advisor to plan and book your adventure to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands on 0800 412 5678.
Latin Routes offers a trip to Ecuador and the Galapagos incluxding flights, transfers and stays at Casa Gangotena, Mashpi Lodge, Finch Bay and a four-night cruise abord the yacht Isabella II. Call Silver Travel Advisor to book on 0800 412 5678.
