THE ISLAND OF SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE – The Church and Campanile
The impressive white facade of San Giorgio Maggiore church can be seen across the water from St Mark’s and tempts tourists to hop on a vaporetto (No. 2 service clockwise) to see what’s inside, just one stop away.
The church is late 16th century and considered by many to be one of Palladio’s best works and it’s well worth spending some time exploring the light interior, its beautiful paintings, including two Tinterettos, and artefacts in the free museum. On this occasion there were also large sculptures in an exhibition of work by Berlinde de Bryckere being shown in the church and a neighbouring abbey building during Biennale.
However, we’d come mainly to see the views from the campanile as it was a sunny and clear day. This was our third visit to the campanile – the first time the views were spoiled by huge cruise liners dominating the skyline; at that time they were allowed to enter the lagoon: the second time the weather was wet and windy so we didn’t spend long at the top. On this occasion we headed directly to the foot of the bell tower to buy our tickets – the price has gone up and is now 8 euros each – still a bargain. I think Health and Safety and the poor condition of the stairwell means nobody can use the stairs. The lift only holds about 4 people but there was no queue and we were soon on our way to the top to emerge near the bells and head quickly to peer in turn at the amazing views in each direction. Down below are the former monastery buildings one of which now houses the Cini Foundation. In that direction we could also see people sitting in the sun at tables in the garden of a restaurant/cafe, which looked rather inviting. Well tended monastery gardens and an outdoor theatre fill the remainder of this small island. Lido can be seen in the distance and several islands, notably Murano and Burano; the campanile on Torcello can also be picked out. Then moving round we could see Giardinni, Arsenale and beyond that the bell tower of San Pietro di Castell. From another view point we were facing the Doges Palace and La Salute near the end of Dorsoduro at the entrance to the Grand Canal. We could also see the length of Dorsoduro on the opposite side of the Giudecca Canal, a glimpse of the once busy cruise terminal at the end, the ugly outline of the Mestre-Marghera industrial complex on the mainland with the distant Dolomites on the far horizon. On the Giudecca side, a short distance away, we were able to see the garden of the Hotel Cipriani with its large swimming pool and views over the lagoon; the curve of the Giudecca Canal leads the eye to the vast converted flour mill that is now the Hilton Molino Stucky Hotel. But the most striking view of all is that of the impressive dome in the centre of the cross shaped church roof below.
We descended to look more closely at some of the other interesting things we’d seen on this island from our vantage point at the top of the bell tower.
