Whilst much of Ashgabat’s sightseeing was done from the car, we visited several places for a more in-depth experience.
The National Museum of Turkmenistan
As this was an impressively huge museum, we were relieved our mandatory guide covered only the second-floor galleries. These were dedicated to the history of two ancient sites, Merv and Nisa, which we were to visit the following day. Whilst I found many of the displays a little dry and dull, I liked the elaborately carved horns or rhyton, used for drinking wine. Before leaving, we asked to see a ground-floor display covering various features of modern-day Turkmenistan which we found more interesting.
Monument of Neutrality
The tripod-shaped monument, resembling a rocket, was topped with a 12-metre-tall gold-plated statue of the country’s first President, Saparmurat Niyazov, which originally rotated so he always faced the sun. It was guarded by two soldiers and there was a point where photos were forbidden. A plaque said Turkmenistan was recognized by the United Nations Organisation on 12 December 1995 as the ‘first neutral state in the world’, which prompted us to wonder where Switzerland was in this.
Independence Monument and Park
The 91-metre-tall monument was surrounded by beautiful gardens, numerous fountains and 27 statues of Turkmen heroes. Unfortunately, it is known locally as the plunger due to its shape.
Halk Hakydasy Memorial Complex
This honours those killed during three events, and each had their own monument. The 160-acre site was devoid of visitors, and as our guide was keen to avoid the temperatures of 35+ degrees, she found shade whilst we were free to wander, probably one of the only times.
Battle of Geok Tepe in 1881 – with bas reliefs of soldiers going off to war and various battle scenes.
Great Patriotic War 1941 to 1945 – The Eternal Glory, five tall pillars around the eternal flame, was guarded by two soldiers with a third patrolling, who told us when we needed to back off.
1948 Ashgabat earthquake – Monument Ruhy Tagzym was a tall plinth topped by huge raging bull tossing the world, with a woman on top, holding a golden child aloft.
Gulistan or Russian Bazaar
As a change from museums and monuments, we visited the Russian Bazaar, where the stall holders at the souvenir stalls did not hassle, and I bought a small felt camel. Inside, where we were advised not to take photographs of any kind, we found a cornucopia of fresh fruit, vegetables, herbal medicines and teas, dried fruits and nuts and Caspian caviar which we were given tasters of.
Whilst for much of the time we had to be content with views from the car, we had a few photo stops. One of our favorites was the beautiful clock-like monument which set a Guiness World Record for ‘The largest Ferris wheel in an enclosed architectural design’, although the air-conditioned cabins appeared to have ground to a halt, as there was no suggestion of a whirl. Or maybe it was because it was opposite the Parliament building which we were forbidden from photographing. The same applied to Government buildings which was disappointing bearing in mind their unique architecture: the golden globe topping the ministry of Foreign affairs; the book-shaped ministry of education; and our favourite, the ministry of gas which looked like a cigarette lighter although it is said to represent a flame.
Amongst other intriguing sights we drove past were:
The Monument to the Bicycle inaugurated in 2020, to mark the United Nations World Cycling Day. The huge globe with maps of Turkmenistan on both sides had golden cyclists circling it and Akhal-Teke horses and a caravan of camels below.
The circular Museum of Wheat, the only one in the world, had an ear of wheat standing upright from the roof.
The Monument to the Constitution, a tall rocket-shaped statue, contained the five carpet designs symbolising the five provinces. These are featured everywhere, including the Turkmenistan flag.
The façade of the Turkmen State Archive with its abstract concrete bas-relief by a Russian, said to be one of the few art works remaining in the city from the Soviet period.
The 36-meter-tall Ylym Monument topped by the nine planets of the solar system, to demonstrate the development of national science.
Ashgabat is without a doubt one of the most unusual, fascinating cities I’ve ever visited, and although I’d liked to have stayed longer, I’m not sure I’d have been allowed to see much more.
