Iskander Kul or lake is one of Tajikistan’s highlights and the drive to it had been spectacular with fabulous views of snowcapped mountains. We stayed at a Turbaza, a former Soviet holiday camp, now called Zumrad, comprising of various chalets and cabins dotted around the lake shore.
At 1.30pm our room wasn’t ready, and so we were treated to a pot of green tea, the first of many during our one-night stay, in the lakeside restaurant. Our chalet, in a block of two, had a double bed (with a 1-inch-thick mattress on a wooden frame) and a single bed with a regular mattress. Both had rather garish bed linen with the double having three mis-matching floral patterns. Apart from a TV which we didn’t use, and plenty of power points for charging, the only other facilities were a cheap plastic stool and hooks masquerading as a wardrobe. WiFi was available in the central area only.
The huge bathroom had lots of empty space, a second stool and a slight whiff. The walk-in shower had a shower head but no fixing to hold it, and as we’d got damp and chilly whilst out walking, we decided to make do with a quick wash. We also avoided putting our feet in the plastic sliders provided.
The lakeside restaurant had a large outdoor terrace for good weather and an indoor restaurant. Due to the altitude 2195m, it was cool in the evening and even though we sat inside, we ate in layers and fleeces. The no-choice, no-frills dinner comprised of a shared salad with large chunks of tomato, long slices of cucumber and strangely, the green tops of spring onions without the bulb. We declined rice soup to concentrate on a huge plate of chicken and chips which we washed down with Russian beer and yet more green tea.
There was little to do once it was dark and as we’d had dinner at 7pm, we were tucked up by 9pm. I opted for the double bread board and wrapped myself in the duvet for additional comfort and warmth, whilst Roy slumbered under a slippery duvet decorated with pink prancing ponies.
At our pre-arranged, pre-ordered 7.30am breakfast, we enjoyed sliced meats, cheese, and bread with jam and honey, whilst our guide and driver tucked into porridge and fried eggs with sausage
The main reason for visiting the lake is hiking and on arrival we enjoyed walking around the lake shore until the skies darkened and the rain fell. The following day we woke to bright blue skies and sunshine and after breakfast, set off on a 45-minute hike to Iskander waterfall. The path was relatively good, but there was a slight hill, and in places it narrowed, and rocks had to be clambered over. However, wildflowers abounded, and the snow-capped mountain views were stunning. On arrival at what is known locally as the Tajik Niagara, we stood on an iron grill virtually above the water cascading down the 42m drop. The only people we encountered was on our return, when we passed a group of three Tajik young men. One asked us where we were from, our names and then how old we were. We told him we were Silver Travellers which obviously bemused them.
