Jeannine Williamson discovers one of France’s best-kept secrets on a CroisiEurope cruise
As our boat bobbed through the crystal-clear turquoise water and rounded another craggy inlet – the granite rocks and white beaches gleaming under the warm morning sun – it was easy to see why crested cormorants, Mediterranean Audouin’s gulls and shearwaters, part of the petrel family, have made the Lavezzi islands their home.
Our skipper explained how the protected Corsican archipelago, only accessible by boat, provides them with a safe and tranquil haven. It’s a view seemingly shared by the billionaires that own villas on Cavallo, the only inhabited island which has attracted a star-studded list of visitors including Mick Jagger, Princess Caroline of Monaco, Catherine Deneuve and former French president Nicolas Sarkozy, to name just a few.
It is undoubtedly a secluded hideaway, but on day four of my CroisiEurope cruise around Corsica on La Belle des Océans it’s an impression I’m getting of the whole island. While Corsica is the fourth largest Mediterranean isle, after Sicily, Sardinia and Cyprus, it’s far less-known, to the extent that only around 10% of visitors are Brits, with the majority coming from France.
Throughout the week, a constant observation from many of my fellow passengers, mostly first-time visitors, like me, is Corsica seems undiscovered. Whatever the reason, be it there are only seasonal direct flights from the UK, maybe that’s a good thing. Wherever we went the locals went too. It never felt over-touristy or over-priced and it was a delight to see towns and villages filled with small, independent shops stocked with covetable quality goods and hand-crafted souvenirs rather than a plethora of tat.
CroisiEurope provides the best way of getting a really authentic and in-depth experience of the island with a culture shaped by its location – 105 miles from southern France and 56 miles from northwestern Italy – and its past. Part of France since 1770, following a 500-year rule by the Genoese, Corsican history has seen many invaders and rulers including Greeks, Romans, Moors and, fleetingly, the British.
The line is the only one to provide round-the-island Corsica cruises (most large cruise ships call by for a day) on the 130-passenger La Belle des Océans. The ship’s small size, and fact you have the same guide travelling with you for the whole of the week, makes it a very personal and special experience. As well as learning about Corsica’s flora, fauna and complex history from our affable and hugely knowledgeable guide Paul, who has made documentaries about the island, the staff were an absolute delight, quickly getting to know our favourite drinks and amazing us with a wonderful all-singing all-dancing crew show.
On the seven-night cruise that started and ended in Nice, each day brought a new and diverse experience. It really is the best way to travel around Corsica which is dominated by a mountainous terrain with narrow, winding roads.
Probably the best-known fact about the island is being the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte. Our first port of call was Ajaccio, where he was born in 1769 and where his family home is now a museum.
During the week there were optional excursions which can be booked in advance or on board. They provided the opportunity to explore independently or go on trips – a mix of coach, small boat and walking tours – with the guide. While some guests went off in search of all things Napoleon, I booked the tour along the scenic peninsula of Iles Sanguinaires, where we gazed out at rugged islands and smelled wild onions and aromatic herbs in the verdant undergrowth.
Indeed, one of the other surprises about Corsica is that it’s so green and natural. There are lush forests, olive groves, lemon and orange trees, huge cacti and an abundance of flowers and vegetation.
One of my favourite trips was to the UNESCO-listed Calanques de Piana rock formations near Porto on the west coast. Also best seen from a small boat, these sheer granite cliffs rise hundreds of feet above the sea and, depending on the light, take on shades of deep red, pink and orange.
Following the trip around the Lavezzi islands we visited equally impressive Bonafacio, where much of the old town is perched high on a clifftop. Warm and welcoming Corsicans are proud of their heritage, and we met many along the way. There were several spontaneous encounters, too. During free time in Bonafacio I ended up walking back to the bus with our guide. A restaurateur spotted us and insisted we come in for a complimentary glass of Champagne. In other towns we lingered over coffees and cocktails and are never made to feel rushed, usually having to ask for the bill which was very reasonable when it arrives.
Back on La Belle des Océans there was an equally sociable and easy-going atmosphere. This is helped in part by the free-flowing drinks included in the fare, which began pre-lunch with the cocktail of the day and creative fruit and vegetable display alongside the featured tipple.
At mealtimes we were seated with fellow English speakers; a couple from Canada and two engaging and lively octogenarian ladies from Peru. Other passengers were most silver travellers from France and mainland Europe, along with some families including multigenerational groups with their grandchildren.
The food, with a French and Mediterranean focus, was excellent and we particularly enjoyed the al fresco lunch and dinner (everyone gets to experience this at least once per cruise) by the pool. Another gastronomic highlight was the gala dinner with a multi-course menu fastened with a wax seal; another nice touch. It was a slow-paced, relaxing and happy affair, which typified our entire week. The French call Corsica ile de beauté, meaning island of beauty, and I certainly second that.
Find out more
CroisiEurope, Europe’s largest river cruise operator, also operates the two small ocean ships, La Belle des Océans and La Belle de l’Adriatique, which sail to destinations in the Mediterranean and Adriatic.
Next steps
To book a cruise with CroisiEurope and get further information from our Silver Travel Advisors, call 0800 412 5678.
