Focusing on the themes of History and Art, Riviera Travel’s Rhône River cruise drops in on millennia of European art: from 36,000-year-old cave drawings of now extinct woolly rhino and mammoths at Chauvet 2 in the Ardeche, through delicate, ethereal Botticellis in Avignon, to a cutting-edge exhibition of contemporary mixed media art in Arles.
Also, this cruise drops in on eons of history: sometimes beautiful, sometimes brave, frequently brutal. History is everywhere, rooted in the landscape as much as the olive trees and wild thyme.
Roman ships brought advanced civilisation and astounding architecture up this river. Imagine being a Gallic peasant in the 1st century AD, awestruck by the incredible three-tiered Pont du Gard aqueduct that delivered baths, cascades, fountains and good health.
Despite the grandeur of Avignon’s papal palace, today we’re so used to seeing our popes making the sign of the cross in Rome, it is hard to believe that Avignon was the home of seven popes in the turbulent 14th century.
Rampaging mercenaries, unemployed after the Hundred Years War ended, contributed to the region’s arrow-slit architecture; even church bell towers took on a defensive role.
At Beaune the Le Musée de l’Hôtel-Dieu reveals a mixed portrait of humanity. Persuaded by his wife, Nicolas Rolin lavishly endowed a wonderfully ornate hospital that opened in 1443, probably as penance for his ruthless role as Chancellor to the Duke of Burgundy. Even though Rolin’s donations became increasingly generous, few patients recovered from their illness. Putting two patients in one bed only increased the mortality rate.
The cruise also features more recent history. The French Resistance hid and plotted in the six kilometres of Beaune’s wine cellars. Whilst the remaining pillars of Arles’ railway bridge recall that it was bombed by the Allies in preparation for Operation Dragoon in August 1944, landings along the French Riviera to liberate Marseilles and Toulon.
Through audio guides and headphones, Riviera’s local guides speaking impeccable English – including Richard originally from Cleethorpes but now a Burgundy resident – provide a fascinating soundtrack to the region’s rich history.
A fascinating itinerary that could have been curated by art historians, Roman Gods and papal legates, attracts many repeat cruisers from Riviera’s well-travelled clientele. They are also drawn by the ease of travel: Riviera books flights or rail travel from the UK, arranges transfers and excursions to unmissable sites. All part of the all-inclusive package.
Prior to each day’s excursions, the Cruise Director introduces the visits. “The Ardeche Gorge is France’s take on America’s Grand Canyon – only with better cheese,” Diana quips before we take a coach tour to the 124,000-thousand-year-old Pont d’Arc, a natural limestone bridge standing 54 metres above the Ardeche River.
The Riviera package also includes full board, a selected range of drinks from the bar, plus wine with lunch and dinner. Our cruise began in Avignon with the intense soft fruit flavours of a local Syrah red, moving onto refined and silky Burgundies as the MS Thomas Hardy briefly left Le Rhone and sails towards Chalon-sur-Saône. As there are usually six main course choices served in the ship’s panoramic restaurant, selected white and rosé wines are also available. Most guests book into the intimate Brasserie for an evening or two, particularly as the steak and sword fish mains should not be missed. It’s a 24 cover- restaurant at the stern of the ship.
After the ship has meandered through Avignon, Arles, Vienne and Chalon-sur-Saône, the 167-berth MS Thomas Hardy finally moors up in Lyon. After a voyage of great food and wine, it’s appropriate that we conclude in a city claiming to be France’s gastronomic capital. A reading of the menus of restaurants spilling out onto the cobbles of the city’s Old Town, constructed in the Renaissance, more than justifies that claim. After King Francis 1, early in the 16th century, decreed that France should boost its silk industry, Lyon became the wealthy Silk Capital of the World.
Following on from Vienne’s amphitheatre, odeon, temple and ancient city walls, Lyon also packs historic Roman punch with Lugdunum Museum built into the side of the hill hosting a vast Roman Amphitheatre. Our guide tells us that “Bread and Games”, with weekly games at the amphitheatre, were the Romans’ formula for discouraging the colonies from rebelling. In the final uneasy days of teetering Empire, there were games every third day.
From Palaeolithic finger and flint painting, through the crenelated towers of war, Riviera’s elegant voyage, distils millennia of Art and History into a voyage that captures France’s cultural heartbeat – both past and present.
Next steps
To book your next cruise, call Silver Travel Advisor on 0800 412 5678.
