Marion Ainge explores Croatia and Montenegro on a solo tour
Sapphire blue bays backed by thickly forested mountains, Medieval towns, a microclimate and a budget-friendly stay make Montenegro just marvellous. This tiny country, known as the hidden jewel of the Balkans, which faces the glittering Adriatic Sea, is not so much of a secret anymore. But visit in spring or late season and you’ll avoid sharing the experience with hordes of other tourists.
Riviera Travel knows just what it takes to make everyone feel comfortable, happy and entertained. Ever-smiling, genial tour manager, Paul meets and greets our 17-strong group of solos at Dubrovnik airport and, happily, is with us all the way on our seven-day Solos’ Escorted Tour of Montenegro and Dubrovnik.
Our coach journey takes a little over three hours, including a border control stop, to Budva in Montenegro. We’re staying at the four-star neo-classical, stone-built Moskva Hotel, which boasts a swimming pool and air-conditioned rooms, most with balconies, and is just a few minutes’ walk to the town and beach.
The following day, it’s over 30 degrees but with sun-hats, shades and comfortable footwear, this over-50s (mainly over 60s) group is ready for the tour around Budva. Our excursion guide is Yugoslava. Her father named his daughter in memory of the time of The People’s Republic of Yugloslavia which included Slovenia, Slovenia, Serbia, Bosnia, Herzegovina Montenegro and Croatia. And it’s the last of the two of these two beautiful countries which our group will be exploring.
The aptly named Budva Riviera is the centre of Montenegrin tourism. Budva has a dazzling harbour, with wonderful views over the sparkling Adriatic Sea, sandy beaches, a buzzing nightlife scene if you want it, and great seafood. Circled by a Venetian wall, this vibrant town of interesting, narrow back streets has a notable cafe culture, where locals like to gossip, exchange tips and stories. A coffee and a cake here will only set you back about four euros, too.
But who wants coffee when there’s a wine tasting session coming up. The Sipcanik wine cellar was formerly an aircraft hangar, converted in 2007. The cellar’s 28,000 metres houses over 2m litres of wine, including Vranac the flagship red wine of Montenegro. Very nice it is, too!
Off the coast of Kotor, it’s about six miles along the coast to the luxurious, exclusive private islet, of Sveti Stefan, (St Stephen). Once a fortress, it’s connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway and with pink-sanded beach and aquamarine waters it’s a haven for the rich and famous. It costs 100 euros a day to rent a sunbed! Tennis ace, Novak Djokovic was married here. Visitors have included the Beckhams, Marilyn Monroe, Princess Margaret and our late Queen Elizabeth 11.
Popular cruise port, fortified and Unesco-protected Kotor, is another Montenegrin gem, which lies on a spectacular, indented coastline, nestled between sharp, craggy mountains which drop down into the deep, blue Bay of Kotor. Sometimes described as a fjord, it’s actually a ria, i.e. a submerged river canyon. Described as one of the most beautiful places in the world, it is also one of the best-preserved Medieval towns in Europe.
Kotor’s wealth of cultural treasures covers churches, museums, Roman remains and Venetian palaces. According to legend, the colony of cared-for cats in the town has evolved from those brought in from ships by old sailors many years ago. The felines are fed and watered by shop/cafe owners and residents.
From pretty Perast, the tiny town of just a 1.5km walk from end to end, we take a short boat ride to the tiny, man-made Our Lady of the Rocks Island. The small Catholic church hosts a collection of Baroque art and silver tablets donated by sailors in gratitude for their salvation on the seas.
One of my favourite days of the tour is a visit to the fascinating, old, urban hilltop village of Stari Bar, which dates back to the 9th Century and has evidence of influences from the Romans, the Byzantines, the Venetians and the Ottomans. The population is just 1,864. It’s quite a steep, and hot climb to the church in the town, but on the way up the winding alleys are crammed with small shops and quaint cafes with colourful shutters and flower-filled window boxes. Looking down from the balcony of a fascinating, Turkish-themed cafe, I sip a glass of iced lemonade and soak up the atmosphere and allure of the magical Stari Bar.
Bordering Albania and Montenegro, Lake Skadar is the largest in southern Europe and home to half of Europe’s population of endangered Dalmatian pelicans plus more than 280 bird species. Our two-hour wooden boat trip is an enchanting, dreamy experience. We immerse ourselves in the tranquil beauty and glide along the shimmering, emerald green water, through hidden channels and canals plus open stretches of mirror smooth watery reflections.
At the Bankada Restaurant, near Sveti Stefan in Budva the food is excellent and the views are incredible! I excuse myself from the table several times to take sunset photos from the terrace. The golden sun is just slipping down to the Adriatic Sea and as it passes behind a few light clouds, streaks of neon orange and pink light the sky.
On our last day, we’re in Croatia’s darling – the ancient, wall city of Dubrovnik. Byron’s ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’ is a beauty with its stunning harbour, polished limestone -paved streets and historic buildings.
Next steps
To plan and book your holiday to Montenegro and Croatia, or any other Riviera Travel tour, call Silver Travel Advisor on 0800 412 5678.
