The Jugged Hare

33 Reviews

Star Travel Rating


Review type

Things to do


Date of travel

October, 2015

Product name

The Jugged Hare

Product country


Product city


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Do you remember the infamous psychiatrist episode from the much loved Fawlty Towers TV series? The one where misogynist, sexist, paranoid Basil asks Doctor Abbott if he took the exam twice? “No. I’m a doctor, my wife’s a doctor”.

Towards the end of the madcap episode – too crazy to summarise – Basil is caught with a broom outside the doctors’ bedroom saying “the game’s up”. He tries to cover his tracks by pretending there’s some food on the hall ceiling.

I say this only because I was reminded of John Cleese’s masterpiece today, having lunch with old colleagues at The Jugged Hare in Chiswell Street, near London’s Barbican.

It’s in a beautiful building, once part of the old Whitbread brewery site, and is now a bar and “gastro pub”, specialising in game. Particularly at this time of the year, after The Glorious 12th and all that.

It’s not for the faint-hearted. Or vegetarians. Or the calorie conscious. But if you’re not spooked by partridge, widgeon, grouse or even a bit of mallard, this could be a good place to beat towards, should you find yourself in the neighbourhood.

The wild boar scotch egg, with a rich berry-based hunters’ sauce, was an unctuous start. The crispy coating, perfectly gooey, gamey egg and the thick, dark sauce were a delicious combination of tastes and textures.

For even greater self-indulgence try the eponymous jugged hare. This 18th century dish is served in a tall jug, immersed in the animal’s own blood and served up with a thick mashed potato, cabbage & bacon. I asked for red cabbage instead of green, and could almost hear the arteries hardening as I ingested the dense, rich as Croesus stew.

The seafood, steaks and rotisserie options all looked good too, but this really is all about The Game.

There’s a sense of theatre here, the service is a bit precious, and the prices soar as high as an escaping partridge. But this is cooking good enough to impress at least two doctors.

“The Jugged Hare restaurant”:

Andrew Morris

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