Rock-Hewn Churches

1016 Reviews

Star Travel Rating

4/5

Review type

Things to do

Location

Date of travel

January, 2016

Product name

Product country

Product city

Travelled with

Reasons for trip

Having visited the northwestern cluster of churches in the morning and, after a fortifying lunch. we set off for the five churches in the southeastern cluster: separated from the northwestern churches by the Jordan River, they’re meant to be the recreation of Jerusalem.

The first church Bet Gabriel Raphael was out of bounds as it had been recently renovated by the US. The project had only taken six months and the church was due to be reopen on Epiphany (19 January).

Bet Leham was a small mud type hut where they prepared the communion and here we had a choice to get to Bet Mercurious – either a 40m tunnel which was dark and head high and in some way was meant to determine whether you would go to heaven or hell or the top route. Roy opted for the tunnel with our shoe bearer, whilst I clambered up looking down into the place where they would exit. Roy was told to try to avoid using flashlight and navigate by putting his right hand against the wall and his left against the ceiling. Because the shoe bearer was holding his hand to help him, he found this a bit difficult and he kept bashing his bonce.

We waited for ages for them to emerge and we’d seen a big group, assumed they’d got stuck behind only to find they were already out and waiting in the shade. We scrambled down to greet them in what was the best church, as you could clearly see it carved out of the rock. Inside we found faded 12 or 13th century wall paintings of the three wise men (Balthazar came from Ethiopia) and the twelve disciples. In addition, there was a series of paintings on canvas depicting various religious themes which had been completed at the time the bet was built and had been put behind glass to prevent fading.

We then walked along a narrow open tunnel to Bet Emanuel (meaning God be with us) and the only monolithic church in the cluster. It had been unsuccessfully renovated by the Italians in that they’d actually damaged the walls.

Bet Mercurios was a cave church and housed a new painting of St Mercurios on his traditional black horse driving a spear through the evil King Oleanus

Our final church of this cluster, and said to resemble Petra, was Bet Abba Libanos which was very different to all the rest as it was built around a cave in a vertical face. Legend has it that it was built overnight by angels.

Bet Giyorgis was our final stop and a short drive away. It is the only uncovered church as UNESCO has covered the others with protective canopies. Eskedar explained the design represents Noah’s Ark and the scree depicted Mount Ararat where the ark landed with the olive bush at the top. Interestingly there is no reference to Noah in the book or online.

It was built slightly on a tilt to allow rain to run down three gutters on the sides and front: it was also narrower at the top to provide stability. II was an incredible sight from the top but we first made our way down yet another steep open tunnel to reach the bottom. By now it was getting towards 5pm and the priest had just locked up after a big group but Eskedar shouted to him, he opened up and we had the place to ourselves. Eskedar’s first priority was to get the priest to bless him with his cross on his stomach (as he was still feeling sick) and on his back. Inside was the original wooden chest of King Lalibela, said to contain the tools used to create the churches. Eskedar demonstrated a huge wooden corkscrew used to open and close it. Whilst walking round the outside we saw the body parts of pilgrims who had wanted their body placed in a hollowed out part of the rock – you could actually make out the detail of the feet.

All the sights were stunning and it was hard to imagine that they had been carved out of solid rock. However, there was lots of up and down, steep paths, stairs and scree. The insides of all the churches had very uneven stony floors and although they were covered with various mats, it was very easy to trip.

It was an excellent but taxing day and you need to be reasonably fit particularly as Lalibela is at 2630m above sea level.

Helen Jackson

Join the club

Become a member to receive exclusive benefits

Our community is the heart of Silver Travel Advisor, we love nothing more than sharing ideas, inspiration, hints and tips between us.

Come feel the love on a Princess cruise. You’ll enjoy the MedallionClass experience others simply can’t, and it’s exclusively for everyone. Visit incredible destinations and be involved in the best experiences around each one of them.

Experience more with Princess and connect effortlessly with the world around you, spend time away with loved ones, take a moment for yourself, and fall in love with your holiday of a lifetime, every time.

With over 20 years of experience, Wendy Wu Tours has mastered the art of creating exceptional, fully inclusive tours which showcase the very best of each destination.

Each tour is led by a world-class guide, who will highlight the very best of their homeland, and includes authentic cultural experiences so you are not just seeing the sights, but truly immersing yourself in local life.

Say hello to ease at sea. Ambassador’s purpose is simple: they want to inspire every guest to experience authentic cruising, effortlessly and sustainably. Passionate about protecting our oceans and destinations, their ships comply with the highest industry emission standards and there is no single-use plastic on board.

On your voyage, you will receive the warmest of welcomes from the Ambassador community as you sail upon the friendliest ships afloat.

This is a global co-operative co-owned by local partners using real local experts and guides, which supports local communities, environments and wildlife. It offers travellers quirky places to stay, activity holidays and learning experiences. Not In The Guidebooks gets travellers off the beaten track into local culture with day experiences and longer, immersive adventures.

From wild wellness breaks in Wales to painting in Portugal, sustainable adventures in Mauritius to food safaris in Brazil, this is immersive, exciting travel.

Seabourn’s five intimate ships carry guests to the heart of great cities, exclusive yacht harbours and secluded coves around the world, while two new purpose-built expedition ships will combine exhilarating adventures in remote destinations with the sophisticated amenities of the world’s finest resorts at sea.

From the luxury of all suite accommodations to complimentary fine wines and spirits, and a no tipping policy, Seabourn exemplifies the definition of travelling well.